Into the Eye of the Son 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | M. Veillon |
| Submitted By: | Ben May on Jan 16, 2012 |
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Philipp getting ready for the crux at the roof
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb has it all. It starts with good feet and small sloping crimpers and works up and left into great finger locks in a diagonal crack but the feet disappear. Continue up onto thin face climbing with really athletic high-steps to the roof. Continue past roof to easier climbing, up and right to rap anchor.
Location start on the diagonal crack that jets up and left under the roof on the main wall
Protection bolts, rap anchor
Pulling the roof.
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Pulling the roof!
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Pulled the roof! last quickdraw is on my left hip ...
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To cheat or fall! That is the question :P I cheate...
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| Comments on Into the Eye of the Son |
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By Ben May
From: del mar, ca
Jan 16, 2012
| I think what I have depicted here is a variation of what's in the Kennedy/Hubbard guide... which states that the climb actually starts on the face underneath the finger crack. That may be a harder option but I can assure you that the crack is a must-do. |
By AlexK
Jan 19, 2012
| Thanks Ben for taking us here! This is a great climb that starts on good crimps and delicate feet and moves through balance moves to the crux over a roof. From there it's a few small crimps to get to an easy finish and the anchors.
I definitely penciled this into the topo in my SD climbing guide book. |
By Ben May
From: del mar, ca
May 7, 2012
| I just want to state, for the record, that I am not responsible for the bolts added to this route. I agree in full that bolts should not go where natural protection can be used. This is a great climb, none the less. |
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