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Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

Intimidation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,422
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Sep 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Starting up Intimidation.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's surprising that this route hasn't been added to MP until now, since it's one of the best routes on Blair III. Start by climbing a nice, hand crack that angles right to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, pull the first of two cruxes up a steep and strenuous crack/face. The next crux is a challenging offwidth that leans left and offers some good grunting.

Location 

This route is located on the northwest face of Blair III towards the southwest end. Look for a triangular inset of rock about 20' off the ground to find the start.

Protection 

Medium stoppers to #4.5 Camalot. There is a two bolt anchor at the top and two ropes are needed to rap off (one 70m might reach).


Photos of Intimidation Slideshow Add Photo
This is what happens if your rope is not truly 60m...
This is what happens if your rope is not truly 60m...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2013
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Get on this thing, very fun. My friend said a 60 meter rope got him to the ground. Make sure your rope is 60, apperently my buddy's rope is not a full 60 meter, as I was left hanging in a tree about 20 feet up.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I am not one to typically pay attention to grade fights, but can we all please stop regurgitating ratings in the books. Most will agree that where the consensus in the guide books was 9+ at Vedauwoo, this typically refers to a period in time when ratings stopped at 9. This is yet another example of one of these old school ratings where the aspiring 9 leader will find themselves first flailing and then probably aiding their way up or running around the backside to rap off and retrieve their gear.

This thing is wide and sustained - right off the ground you will find that what looks like a nice hand crack is actually fairly insecure until about 15' off the ground. Getting up into the first wide section itself (around block split by two converging cracks) is tricky due to the angle and the steepness of the face. After this, the grunting begins as you hit several wide sections - the first two being right leaning and the last being left leaning. I believe that route actually gets more difficult toward the top, with the last wide section before the anchors being an all-out heel-toe, arm-barring grunt to the top.

This route is long and will probably feel best if you have doubles in the hands to at least #4 Camalots - probably be better to have a #4.5 or 5, but is doable with just #4s.
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

That's right, I don't like some greenie calling me a regurgitator on this site or anywhere else for that matter. I tend to take offense to someone from CO (or anywhere else) telling me how I should grade the routes at Vedauwoo. In my opinion, the route goes at 9+. Matt you can stay down in CO and tell people how to grades routes down there for all I care.
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 18, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Regurgitator? I am not even sure what that means. And that comment was not necessarily directed at anyone in particular. Feel free to rate it 9+ if you wish, Tyler. I am just pointing out the fact that there are some inconsistencies in terms of the grading here. Let's take a look at what's in the area - would you recommend this route to someone breaking into 9s that just cruised A Dream of Fat Antelope, suggesting that this one is just "slightly" more difficult? Or do you think that Jogging to Vedauwoo is more difficult? The point is, that although Ved has the reputation for stiff grades, it is just like every other area in that some of the climbs are considerably easier than those given in the guide books and some are considerably more difficult. I am suggesting that, based on other routes in the area with comparable grades, maybe the 9+ is a sandbag (although not a big one). So relax, I'm not telling you what to do. I'm expressing an opinion.

And for those considering doing this route - despite Pablo's comments indicating my "whining", note how many stars I gave this route - this thing is awesome and you shouldn't miss it if you are in the area.

I think the FA on this one may go to Jim Brink (an offwidth connoisseur and fellow greenie who has put up a lot of stuff in Vedauwoo).
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 20, 2008

You have to love the good nature of Ved climbers, don't you.

If I may be so bold, and at the risk of having disparaging comments flung at me because I'm a climber from (skoff) COLORADO of all places, where everyone knows, there are no climbers, or PLACES to climb...If we study not the climb, but your POSTS, notice Matt's initial post, is concise, HELPFUL and descriptive of why he believes it goes at his believed grade....

Wyo guys just pretty much say "suck it and go home" for having any kind of opinion other than what's in the book. That is why mountain project exists...to share HELPFUL opinions, and come to CONSENSUS on what may be less than universally agreed upon. It's meant to be helpful, not to squabble about "greenies" coming and...uh-oh, climbing YOUR routes. (which notably, they are not.) Verily, they don't have to be climbed as you insist they should, and if Matt wishes to give someone a helpful heads up as to the fact that this route may not be what would widely be accepted at the current grade of 9+...it may be just that...HELPFUL to someone. A strange thought.

Matt has a point. Grades used to stop at 9. Perhaps then, the original grade of 9+ means it's balls hard for a 9. I think I'll come back up to roof ranch and start regrading things B2+ so I can help people really know what they are climbing in the style of a true Wyo climbing cowboy.
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 21, 2008

Hmm. Again being told to "suck it and go home". Please, someone else tell me to go back to Colorado where the climbing is so awful. Please be a bit more receptive to outsiders views yeah? We aren't trying to convert you. We are trying to share helpful insight to those who may NOT be trying to shove your own license plate up your ass.

As per the grade of 9+ being thrown up after 10s and 11s...yeah, I don't doubt there has been a 9 established after the invent of higher grades which accompanied new shoe and climbing pro technology.

I'm pretty sure there must be a few legitimate 9+s out there after Layton Kor climbed the naked edge at the initial grade of 9+ too. Tell you what, I am a friend of Jim Brink as well, I will ask him about the 9+ grade, to settle something, Then I will keep it to myself since my the color on my license plate pretty much means you won't give a damn anyway.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Nov 22, 2008

Screw it. Eldo is choss. Grade fights suck.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 30, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

When people ask if I want to climb at Eldo on Saturday, I usually say "if i have the entire day off, I would rather drive somewhere with good climbing". Eldo is ok. Definitely the most over-hyped place that I have ever climbed at. The routes might be more than 60 feet tall, but usually it is 5 feet of climbing, 10 feet of scrambling, 5 feet of climbing, then a 50 foot bushy ledge traverse, then 5 feet of climbing, then 30 feet of choss scrambling.... ad nauseum. Don't get me wrong, there are some really good pitches in Eldo, but it is definitely lacking in density.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 31, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Adam,

I think that the star rating for the Eldo routes is pretty biased due to several reasons:

a) a lot of Eldo climbers don't leave Eldo and climb elsewhere very often.
b) Boulder climbing in general is pretty mediocre. That's not to say that there aren't some good routes, but the percentage of total routes that somebody who has climbed all over the country would call 'really good' is pretty low.
c) a lot of the star ratings are probably ranked based on other Eldo routes, i.e. the upper 10% of mediocre will probably be pretty mediocre.

I've climbed quite a few routes at Eldo, as well as at quite a few other areas over the last 20 years, so I think i have a pretty good basis of comparison. I have taken a lot of out-of-town friends there for their first time, and taken them on the "4 star routes", and they usually find it pretty disappointing.

It makes for some decent after-work climbing during the longer days though.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jan 1, 2009

Just to be clear, the purpose of my "Eldo is choss" quip was to get somebody all butt hurt over how their local scene is viewed. It makes no sense that we get called bad natured for defending our home crag, but it's perfectly ok for you to defend your home crag. But I guess you missed that nuance.

Eldo is what it is. I learned to climb there.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 22, 2009

Oh my stars. And I though KAYAKING was for kindergartners.

Does it matter how skillfully we murder the odd offwidth if we cannot be bothered to read?

Says right there in the new comment guidelines. "#1: don't be a jerk"

People eating right out of dumpsters, yet here we are, bravely grouching about grades behind the tall fences of our computer screens.

Oshit. Guideline #2: post relevant info about this route. #3: limit offtopic posts, rants, or lengthy discussions to the forums. Seems I find myself my own Satan.

Somebody cut my rope--I'm out!
By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Aug 22, 2009

This route is just fine at 9+. I don't even think this is harder or more sustained than other routes at the grade in Vedauwoo. With 6 to 8 foot cruxes separated by ledges at which total relaxation can be achieved, I would actually say 'sustained' is a poor choice of adjective for this route. The final stretch can be kept pretty relaxed by carrying TWO #5 Friend sized pieces instead of the one that I had to walk.
Those who climb much at Vedauwoo gradually will arrive at the conclusion that any given grade of climbing here (5.6 or 5.12b) is hard won by nationwide standards. This is far from the only area where 9+ is a grade to be approached with a high anticipation of difficult and severe leading. Though a discrepancy may exist between local and nationwide consensus grades, this tendency does not justify retroactive grade inflation.
Those behind the discussion above need to mind their manners. Remember that rock climbing is supposed to be fun and we climbers are supposed to like and help each other.
And how in the holy hell did Eldo get dragged into this?
By Elijah Flenner
Aug 21, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There are bolt anchors and one can get down with a 70 meter rope. Great climbing with hands, offwidth, and several interesting sections. I would agree with the grade of 9+, but if you are not used to Vedauwoo and don't look around, then it will feel harder.
By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was the first offwidth I ever climbed (followed), and my partner and I both almost had our shoes fall off whilst heel toeing out the chimney at the top. Such a great route!

Love the CO vs. WY ratings banter on this route's comments. I'll still go with 9+ as the climb should stay what the FA rated it. Just know what you're getting into when you jump onto any 9+ climb in WY or CO. I mean come on Eldo. climbers... . You all know what 9+ is about. It's often harder than modern 10b.
By VerticalUrge
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

First, I would venture to say this climb is 5.9 at best, but it is closer to 5.9-. The beginning part has excellent gear that is not difficult to place and the moves are maybe a little harder than the first moves on Lower Slot Left (5.7) or the crux moves of Becker (5.7 or 5.8). The middle part also has good gear and finger/hand jam/stemming/chimney move options that are as difficult as the beginning of Capt. Nemo or Oslund's Delight (both 5.8). The upper section, in the context of offwidths, in no way compares to Finally (5.9+ OW) or Fantasia (5.9 OW). Get on those two climbs and try to say the upper part of Intimidation is 5.9+ OW with a straight face.

Also, this climb has at least 4 solid ledge rests- so calling it sustained is laughable. And wide? Only at the end.

Keep your soft Boulder grades down in your bubble with your pranas and egos. If the climbing down there is so boss, brah, stay down there.
By jake marlow
From: laramie
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Possible to do with nothing larger than a #4. I protected the last wide moves with a blue Alien on a 120cm sling.