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The second pitch, the crux of the route.
Inti Watana is an excellent face and crack climb. Although there are bolts on most pitches, it is not a sport climb. This climb is grade V if Combined with the upper portion of resolution arete. If anyone has first ascent info, please post.
Approach mount wilson from the old oak creek campground. Look for gully with a red and white rock cliff at the base. Continue up and around this and into the gully with cairns. When you reach a large pine tree go around to the left and up gully with a massive chock stone. Tunnel under the chock stone and look up to the right for bolts on the first pitch.
P1- Follow bolts up rock that climbs much better than it looks (5.10-).
P2- The crux of the route. Continue up the beautiful and intimidating head wall past many bolts to a belay stance (5.10+).
P3 through P9- Many pitches up to (5.9) in difficulty. Mixed gear and bolted climbing. One pitch is long and has no bolts on it.
P10- Climb up past many bolts on the the overhanging wall. The position is amazing on this pitch (5.9).
P11- Short pitch up past more bolts (5.9).
P12- The last pitch of the route. Continue up through an overhang and crack to the top of the pillar(5.9+).
From here the last part of resolution arete may be climbed or rappel the route. Bring some extra webbing for the rappel. If continuing to the top of Mount Wilson descend to a saddle and drop into first creek. This descent seems to have never ending gully travel. Once out of first creek walk the road back to the car.
Pro to 3",lots of quick draws, and maybe a larger piece if continuing up resolution arete.
Starting pitch 7, the "S Crack Pitch". The climbe...
Pitch 8. This pitch looks easy but is not.
Looking down from the top belay. The entire route...
Pitch 2, final crux moves
climber: Jeff Davis
5.10- pitch high on the route
Looking down from pitch 9
(Damn that focal point!) Bill Geist making the mov...
The upper pitches of this route are stellar. Steep...
Glenn at the crux
Looking out from the Cave.
Todd styling over the bulge on the last pitch.
Todd getting some good exposure on the final moves...
morning glow as seen from the base of Inti Watana
Frank on P4
Frank on P2 (crux pitch)
Frank on P3
Frank on P5
Frank on P6
Frank starting up P7
top of P12 (we linked with P11)
catwalk on Resolution Arete (link-up), P18 in Hand...
P19 (per Handren) of Resolution Arete, link-up fro...
last of the roped bit (the choss roof) on our Inti...
4th and low 5th scrambling to the summit on our In...
Frank enjoying the summit of Mt Wilson
BETA PHOTO: Rainbow Mt from the summit of Mt Wilson
the final gully
Brian on P3
Brian starting up P4
Brian leading P7
Brian on the P9 roof
looking toward Rainbow Mt
Brian on P12
and a few more moves and we're done
top of Resolution Arete (no link-up this time)
Horseshoe Wall (above Sherwood Forest)
spectacular red, Eldo-like wall
BETA PHOTO: alternate view of the approach
|By Eric and Lucie|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2004
I highly recommend this route. The approach is a bit long (exact same approach as for Resolution Arete) but the route is worth it. It is a long one, but there is zero commitment involved as the descent is down the way you climb... The route starts in a dark, narrow gully just to the right of the start of Resolution Arete. Do not get discouraged by the first pitch, which is really bad (slippery red rock covered in moss) but not too hard. The second pitch is beautiful and it is the crux of the route: thin finger crack and face moves on very steep gray rock. The rest of the route continues straight up to the top of the buttress, following intermittent cracks and plated faces. The pro is always good and a mix of trad and bolted. All belay anchors are bomber new bolts. The climbing is not too sustained (feels like a lot of 5.9ish stuff to me), but it is of course a long route... The descent is as straightforward as they come: rap straight down to your packs. A great day! Once you've done this, you'll know the apporach already so you'll want to go back up another day for Resolution Arete.
For photos and trip reports for many other classic routes at RR, check out our web site at www.ericandlucie.com.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2005
Kudos to Jorge and Mike for the vision and effort required to put up this route! I thought this route was stellar and would also highly recommend it. We took a rather skeletal rack and this proved a bit scary on the long "S-crack" pitch which has no bolts at all.
The top three pitches have an amazing position as the face steepens. It is possible to see the very base of the climb from the top pitch.
We continued up Res Arete for "full value" and the contrast between the routes hit us like a sledgehammer. Although lower in grade, we were thrashing up wide cracks, through bushes and freaking out at the loose rock, not to mention the death march descent down First Creek racing the setting sun.
As a historical note, when you start the route, look for the ancient bolt off to the left (it's about 10' left and slightly up from the "real" first bolt, and has an aluminum hangar). This bolt was apparently placed by Joe Herbst in the 70's during a retreat from an early attempt on the Aeolian Wall.
|By Warren Teissier|
Apr 19, 2005
I agree with George that this is an amazing route. It felt like the first 7 pitches of Eagle Dance except 60% longer and with a lot more trad and commitment than Eagle Dance. Equal quality of rock and not a single poor quality pitch
The approach is long and a bit complex mainly in ensuring you find the correct gully. But I felt it was not as painful as other approaches (Oak creek canyon for instance). From the "pass" between Mount Wilson and the Pimple head up-hill on faint trails towards the left side of the rotten red buttress in front of you. When you reach the base of that buttress you will find a very well cairned approach to the gully. Resist the urge to go into the first gully you find, cairns show you that you should continue. When you reach the correct gully there are two large cairns at the base.
The climb up the gully has some 3-4th class scrambling that is not too bad but would get your attention on the downclimb. We found some rap slings in one spot.
The climb is not as "sporty" as we were led to believe in many of the descriptions we read. I think we used trad gear in three pitches for sure, maybe four, and a couple of them were 5.9. The S crack pitch is 100% trad and we were happy to use our #3 camalot and could have used a lot more gear. Although it is not as hard as it looks, the thing is pretty darn intimidating...
We linked the "roof pitch" with the next long 5.9 pitch. You need 16-17 draws for this. This combo is really cool and makes for one pumpy "full value" 5.9 lead.
Linking with Resolution Arete felt like the obvious thing to do. How can one come this far and not tag the summit? The descent via First Creek is arguably the worst trashing I have taken in my Red Rocks experience. According to Joanne Urioste, rapping into Oak Creek is a better option. Although my recollection of the Oak Creek thrashing is about as painful as the First creek one.
For gumbies like us it was a race against sunset. We wound up hiking out in the dark for a couple of hours but luckly, by then we were close to the mouth of the canyon. Full grade V (16 hrs car to car) if you ask me.
What an awesome experience!
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
May 3, 2005
Rope soloed the first 7 pitch's before getting stormed off. I thought the crux was alot closer to 5.10b. The first half of the route was quite good!! i'll have to go back with a better forecast.
May 7, 2005
A great, fun route that just keeps pulling you up. Having descended Mt Wilson once thru First Creek Canyon we decided to forego that "pleasure" and rap the route. The rap went very smoothly (only hung the rope up once and it pulled after a bit of tugging). We did not find this climb to be as difficult as we thought it may be. We made it to the base in 90 minutes from Oak creek parking lot. Climbed it leisurely in 10 pitches, linking 9 & 10 and 11 & 12. After 10 double 60 raps (might of been able to link 3 & 2 for 9) we made it down 8 1/2 hours after we started.Grade II or maybe III if you rap. We took 16 draws, a couple extra long slings, a set of nuts and cams to a 3 camalot minus the 2 camalot and were fine. Way too much gear for all but the 'S' crack pitch which ate pro and was memorable.
|By Doug Hemken|
Nov 29, 2005
Pitch 2 was stunning, and reminded me of Urioste's Black Velvet routes.
We did the first four pitches on 13 Nov, having gotten lost above the White Rot gully on the approach -- I wasn't expecting the White Rot gully (which also can involve tunneling under a chockstone) to rejoin the main gully, and didn't know to just keep following the main gully for a while longer. Once we found the monster Ponderosa pine, the rest of the approach was obvious.
There is at least one handy rap station in the White Rot gully; two short raps would make for a pretty easy descent.
There is moss on several pitches (in the middle of the Mojave desert???), but it doesn't interfere with the climbing.
With two 60m ropes, we rapped from the top of pitch two to the ground.
|By Doug Hemken|
Apr 3, 2006
Went back and did the whole route. Very nice! The upper half involved a lot of bolted face climbing, and I think this is what Joanne Urioste had in mind when she said this route has the feel of "a giant sport climb." But there are plenty of trad sections too: our rack was a set of nuts, cams to 3 inches, and 15 runners.
It took us 12 1/2 hours, car-to-car.
|By Anthony Anagnostou|
Apr 19, 2006
Enjoyed the heck out of Inti Wantana. It was like climbing chrimson chrysalis, but with a pitch of prince of darkness on p2, and didn't see anybody all day. dont let the approach scare you off. 'ain't bad.
the urioste supplement is a bit liberal with rope lengths. using my ropes, p5 is 95', p6 is 110'. the s-crack is long. p8 is 105'. rappelling p5 and 6 together is friendly with two 60s (but tie knots in the ends!). p4 and p3 might rappel together on 60m rope stretch, but you might be left hanging a few feet above the anchor. didn't try this one. you could link 3/4 and 5/6 on teh way up with a few yards of simul.
choice beta: take the crux when swinging leads. this lines you up for the only two plush belay ledges. (but consider extending your anchor under the roof, or risk broken head when leader pops a foothold on p10)
on 4/19/06, the first two pitches were in the shade (cold!) at 9:30am (shaded by res arete formation) and the upper pitches went into the shade by 1:00.
|By David Stowe|
Apr 20, 2006
I though the crux pitch was far more interesting and challenging than anything on Prince of Darkness. I usually find 5.10 pretty soft at Red Rocks but the crux on this was no gimee and much harder than any other pitch on the route. It was also very cold as it was in the shade and very windy.
I disagree about the previous poster with the approach. We got a little lost because the directions that I have seen everywhere are unnecessarily confusing. Even knowing the way now it is still very tiring with alot of loose stuff and alot of 4th class which tends to beat you up with a full pack. Plus there is no way I would want to do that descent in the dark, very good way to get hurt or worse. If you climb long routes at Red Rocks on a regular basis maybe it isn't so bad, but I would much rather do that horrible approach to Levitation than this one, although this one is a little shorter. I still can't see doing it in much less than 2 hours unless you are sprinting.
Great route and easy to rap with no real place to hangup a rope. We actually rapped the final 7 pitches in less than 45 minutes. After the first pitch(not fun) the rest of the route is great.
From: Vancouver, WA
May 8, 2006
Using a 70m rope you can link 1&2, 3&4, 5&6, 8&9, and 10&11. If you want to do this (not hard at all) bring 20 draws. We topped out via. Res. Arete, and then rappel Dogma (17 total). This is a VERY bad idea. Res. was fine, but walk off. It's a lot faster.
|By Kyle vH|
Mar 12, 2007
I'd like to combine this route with the Resolution Arete.
Can anyone tell me how you transition from Inti Watana to the RA?
How do you make the transition, and which pitch do you end up on after finishing IW?
Thanks for any info,
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2007
Kyle, the final anchor on Inti is just below the end of pitch 14 on RA as shown on my topo
I should probably add this info on my topo regarding where Inti comes in.
Just do a short scrambling pitch to reach the start of RA pitch 15. Or, I remember continuing and doing most of pitch 15, belaying where it says "Walk left 15m" on my topo.
|By Kyle vH|
Mar 12, 2007
Thanks for the info, George.
The topo is great!
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 9, 2007
Possibly the best moderate long route in the park. Totally awesome climbing and exposure. Thanks for putting it up gang!
I wouldn't finish up the res. Do the res before this route cuz ytou might not want to do it after doing this one. Then you'd be sad.
From: SLC and Moab, ut
Oct 30, 2007
This is a fantastic route. Thanks to the FA's for the work it took to put this thing together for the rest of us to enjoy!!!
For it's grade as good as any of the Red Rocks classics. The 5.10 version of crimson, levitation or dark shadows. We climbed it on 10/28 and after much piecing together of beta here's my 2 cents.
Approach/Descent-Check out www.ericandlucie.com there's a great overview picture and description of the approach. I would do this approach rather than the one to Levitation any day. The hike to the Wilson Pimple is flat and once you start up it's shorter with way less exposure. The traverse to the left is easy to find and there are maybe two or three 4th class bits in the White Rot gully and that's it, no more peril. You cross over into the main gully AFTER going under and then back on top of a HUGE chockstone.
KEY BETA!!! On the descent CONTINUE DOWN the main gully DON'T go back into the White Rot gully. The main gully is a MUCH better/casual descent more of the same boulder hoping. We made one short 50' repel (could be downclimded) just below the point where you come over from the White Rot gully on the approach and another (130') at the very obvious end of the gully. Both from easily accessed good trees.
The 1st pitch is now very clean and great, in no way did it detract from the route.
We took 15 draws and a single BD rack .3 thru #3 with a green and red C3 and every other nut. Neither of us are particularly bold or great climbers (inti went in good style, levitation 29 we "got up")and we both thought this to be perfect as several pitches including the S pitch are long and need gear and pitch 10 needs 13 draws.
My partner payed very close attention and here's the low down on what can be rapped together with 60m ropes no shenanigans or downcliming.
12 and 11
10 and 9
6 and 5
4 and 3
2 and 1
Maybe bring a wrench, some of the new nuts could use a turn or two.
A must do!!! Enjoy.
|By David Stowe|
Nov 15, 2007
Got back on this route sunday 11/11 after only getting through pitch 7 last year since we got lost on the approach which took us 4 hours last time, YIKES! It probably was also slower last year since we did the climb right after doing Epi.
Anyway this year while the approach was no walk in the park it took us 2 hours and there was no getting lost. There were 4 of us so we climb in twos with a single 70M each. I wound up linking the first two pitches for a great, long 200 foot pitch with the best climbing at the very end. I also agree that the first pitch is cleaning up a bit. While it will never be anywhere near the highlight of the route it is now much cleaning and more enjoyable. We climbed everything else as single pitch until were reached the roof/bulge at the start of pitch 9, where we linked 9/10 and then 11/12. If linking 9/10 you may want to use slings instead of draws in a few spots to cut down on the drag a bit. The 11/12 linkup was alot of fun on steep rock, but I'm not sure where the 10c was as the last pitch is much easier than the pitch 2 crux. Either way a great route where the climbing goes incredibly fast after pitch 2. We did the route in 6 hours. It took 4 of us about 1 1/2 hours to rap the route.
It was allot of fun to have 4 of us up on the wall at the same time and only took us a little longer with the rapping.
Anyone who can lead hard 5.10 on bolts and is competent with gear should have a blast on this one.
Looking for the next challenge on Mt. Wilson. Has anyone out there done either Dogma or Woman of Mountain Dreams?
|By David Stowe|
Mar 18, 2008
You really don't need all that much gear. The the harder pitches are all bolted. Many say that you need large cams for the S Crack pitch, but there is plenty other gear. We went light and had not problems. Single set of cams up the #1 Camalot(red) and a single set of wires should be more than enough. Even if this is pushing you limit the majority of gear pitches are not very hard and there really isn't any required gear for a particular spot. If you are solid at the grade then this an excellent climb to go light and fast on.
|By Vic Lawson|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 27, 2008
OK. First off the route is not as good as many claim, in my opinion. It is very contrived in places, poorly bolted, anesthetically in the middle of a random wall, and just plain seems not worth the trouble.
The guidebook I have (Roxanna Brock's) gives first ascent credit to 5 different people. I think that the widely varying bolting skills, ethics, and overall visions of such a large group ruined what could have been a much better route. You find runouts between bolts on challenging terrain, but on easier sections, you can literally back-clean your draws if you want. Some pitches have bolts next to great, and obvious gear placements, while others have hardly any bolts at all. It seems like the first ascentionists couldn't decide if they were making a sport climb, or a trad climb...now I do understand the whole mixed style of many long Red Rocks routes, but this one seemed very inconsistent, confusing and really distracting. I found myself wondering what in the heck the FAs were thinking instead of enjoying the exposure and movement of the route.
Anyway, here's some facts from our ascent:
We did the route on 3/23/08. Total approach from the car to the base took us 1hr 50min. My partner and I are both reasonably fit, but I am much stronger on 3/4th class terrain. I eventually had to carry her backpack on all the steeper sections of the gully. I'm not saying this to brag, but to provide an example. Even while carrying two backpacks in 30% of the gully, I made it to the base w/in 2 hours. VERY possible.
Approach instructions: Follow the most traveled jeep road from parking area to where the road turns right and heads past Wilson's Pimple. From here, look for the best looking gully, remember which one it is, then head towards it, erring to the right. You should see cairns once you get close to the cliffs. Head up the narrow, leftmost gully (the one that looked the best from afar...) follow cairns, tunnel under a giant chockstone, and follow more cairns. You'll eventually hit a gigantic Ponderosa, head directly up a cleaner gully above the tree, tunnel through another chockstone (one it's left side) and then look on the right wall for bolts.
We got to the base at 9:20am and were a bit cold in the shade. We didn't hit any sun until the 4th pitch, but stayed in the sun until the 7th pitch or so...by then it was definitely warm enough to climb in the shade.
You can link pitches 1&2, 8&9, and 11&12 (we had a 65m rope.) I bet you could link others, but that's what we did.
When rapping we followed "cdec's" info from above which is as follows:
"My partner payed very close attention and here's the low down on what can be rapped together with 60m ropes no shenanigans or downclimbing.
12 and 11
10 and 9
6 and 5
4 and 3
2 and 1"
I can say that 4&3 were VERY close. I had to reach down to clip my sling into the anchor so that I wouldn't rap off the end. Our rap line we brought was an 8.6mm 60m. We could have gotten another 12in or so if we had tied the rappel joining knot closer to the ends, but our tag line had a small core shot that we wanted above the knot.
We descended in the dark, which was not too bad. all in all the gully is pretty straight forward, but kinda technical in spots. You can easily pass bags to one another if needed on steeper sections. We opted to rappel the steepest section that is near the mouth of the gully. I did a Dulfersitz, which worked great, and my partner used a harness and rap device.
If it's dark, just spy Wilson's Pimple, silhouetted against the sky and head directly for it. You will hit the road eventually. Take it right, back to your car.
We took 1 each blue alien through red alien, 1 each #.5 Camelot through #3 Camelot, 6 nuts, and 18 quickdraws for linking pitches. I would suggest leaving the #3 and even the #2 behind. You can get good smaller gear on the S Crack pitch no prob.
All in all a poorly engineered route, on a ho-hum buttress, but the view of the Horseshoe wall from the top can't be beat.
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Apr 24, 2009
Great route. Interesting climbing on good stone the whole way, kudos to the FA team for picking the line and doing all the work. At some point it would be good to replace the slings with chain at the belays. I would not recommend applying a wrench to any of the bolts as the nuts were not loose and further mechanical action would possibly make the bolts worse. If one were to replace the slings it would be good to have a drill along in case one of the bolts is fouled, a couple of them moved in the hole a bit.
On the descent we followed what I believe is the Aeolian Gully which was more direct, but did require two rappels. This was the next gully to the west of the White Rot Gully. We left a sling on a nice solid tree at the top rappel and reinforced the sling at the lower rappel on the rather sketcky small oak.
|By Reed Fee|
From: White Salmon WA
Nov 6, 2009
My friend Matt and I climbed this route on the 24th of Oct. We got to the base about 45 minutes before dawn. We were a little anxious that a party of three we talked to the day before were going to get ahead of us. Needless to say we were the first of 7 people on the route that day. We blasted up to the top of Inti Watana linking all but three pitches. Reach up grab incredibly good edge or knob. Repeat! The last pitch has one gear placement before the last bolt. Wish I would have known that! We continued up Resolution Arete to the summit. We brought up to a #4 BD I wish I would have had another one for pitch 19. It's only awkward 5.8 but I was getting a little tired at this point. We descended via Oak creek. I believe we actually descended the SE fork of Oak creek. We took the gully where the sandstone meets limestone but looking back I think we should have gone over the ridge to the next one. We passed to the right of the tower with the Van shaped top and dropped steeply through brush to a 20' rap with natty slings. A little further down we encountered a 70 meter drop. There is a very old rope here with many knots in it, tied around a boulder. we left two four foot slings(red and green) around more boulders to equalize the two boulders. A SINGLE 70 METER ROPE will just get you to another anchor that consists of an old .75BD and a large nut on a small ledge. From here we rapped to the end of our rope on low angle rock. We continued down to hit the S. fork of Oak to a vertical 10' drop with a large knotted rope around a tree for getting down. Then the main fork of Oak creek where we turned our headlamps on. 16.5 hours car to car. A fantastic way to spend a full day. As we walked back around we could the see headlamps of the party of three still rapping the route!
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 24, 2010
This is a fine line, we thought the crux was the 2 hour approach although pitch 2 has a few feet of thin 5.10 lie backing. I did not think there was any 5.10 past that pitch - just wonderful fast flowing 5.9. With a 60 meter rope and a good partner you can link pitches 5&6 (15 feet of simul climbing), 7&8 (25 feet of simul climbing) 9&10 (no simul) and 11&12 (no simul)making this an 8 pitch climb and knocking considerable time off your ascent. The second pitch and the upper pitches are fantastic.
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 7, 2010
Great route! I climbed it on Tuesday, March 2, 2010. Didn't see anyone on this route the whole week. The route was dry even though there is snow on some ledges still.
I was actually surprised to see all the anchors had tat (random slings) and rap rings on them instead of chains, Metolius Rap Hangers, or a Fixe anchor set-up. This is really annoying to me as some anchor bolts cannot be clipped directly because there is so many slings tied into the bolts. If I had known this I would have brought some chain with me to help the cause.
Mar 30, 2010
Climbed Inti to Resolution arete on 3/27/2010. It was a pretty cold start and then in the sun for most of the climb. We still used down jackets for belays as it was cold and windy. Inti itself is fantastic. We combined the first two pitches and this was by far the crux. I thought those 10c moves were pretty hard. The 10c pitch up high was easy(er). We also combined the last four pitches of Inti into 2, to make one long 5.9 pitch and the 5.9 combined with the 10c pitch. I'm glad we continued on Resolution just to finish it off, but the climbing was not impressive and I'd probably not do it again. The walk off was long and hellish, so my beta is probably useless. We followed cairns for a while but then lost them and found a 3rd/4th class scramble into First Creek Canyon. Then it was endless boulder hopping and scrambling down the wash in the dark. We were not super-fast, the approach took ~2 hours 15 minutes and it is pretty steep 4th class if you've never seen it. We took a rest day earlier and stashed ropes and water at the base and figured out the approach, and I think this helped a lot. The climb itself went from 7am to 5:30pm. The walk off started ok until it was really dark (~7:30pm) and then it took forever to find an acceptable way down, and ended up taking us more like 5 hours to get back to the car.
Jan 12, 2011
Climbed in March 2010, it was cold down low, but wonderful up top. worth the cold to have a longer day and good temps overall.
Saw nice big horn sheep on approach.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 27, 2012
This route is great. We combined it w/ Res for an easier way to top out on Wilson. The approach as of 3/27 is very well cairened, it would be hard to get lost. They're every 10 ft.
This route goes fast, especially if you bring a 70m. Combine pitches 1&2, 4&5, 9&10, 11&12. The guidebook is conservative w/ the rope lengths, we combined 4&5 w/ 20 ft left.
Crux pitches are 1 & 2, after that it's pretty smooth sailing. The 1st pitch has a heinous quarter incher that needs replacement. Pitches 9-12 are awesome, best pitches on the route.
If you continue to res, i'd bring a 4". Also, the "4th class" scramble has a few exposed class 5 moves, so be prepared if you unrope.
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 4, 2012
Fun climb, and certainly well worth finishing on Resolution Arete to top out. Walk off down First Creek is casual, but probably slow if you get caught in the dark. Even if rappelling, make sure to scramble up to the awesome sundeck where the two routes join!
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 3, 2013
Classic Red Rocks face climbing for ~10 pitches up a sweet face. I'll just second that 4&5 link fine and to get the view of horseshoe if rapping.
From: Mojave, CA
Apr 8, 2013
All (12) belay stations on this route have slings and aluminum rap rings. This route really could use some steel quicklinks and all slings removed. This is a good reminder to always bring a few on big routes in Red Rocks.
Handren's pitch lengths are off a bit. With a 70m rope we linked, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 8/9, 10/11. There was rope to spare on all of these pitches.