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Elevation: 1,311 ft
GPS: 45.39795, -92.64749
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Shared By: Kris Gorny on Feb 6, 2015 · Updates
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny
Warning Access Issue: Climbing permits are required for all group and individual climbers at Interstate State Park. Permits are free, and must be renewed each year. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Taylors Falls Bouldering enjoys a long history extending at least into the 1970s. It has been a stable training and play grounds for Twin Cities and St. Croix River local climbers, as well as a popular destination for day-tripping Minneapolis-Saint Paul tourists.

The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.

The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.

There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.

Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.

Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.

Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.

A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.

Getting There Suggest change

Taylors Falls State Park is found in Taylors Falls, Minnesota, immediately off the main road (State Highway 8), immediately west of the bridge into Wisconsin.

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&so…

Interstate Park Climbing Information and map from the DNR website.

Descriptions for problems are listed with each problem/sector.

111 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Interstate State Park Bouldering Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Interstate State Park Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 24
Bad Habit
Boulder
V1 5
 35
Easy Slab Problem
Boulder
V2 5+
 43
Slicksides
Boulder
V3- 6A
 33
Spread Eagle
Boulder
V3 6A
 41
Spider Tracks
Boulder
V3 6A
 16
Lloyd's (Crack)
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 30
Twinkletoes
Boulder
V4 6B
 23
Lunge or Plunge
Boulder
V4 6B R
 9
Sizzlefoot
TR, Boulder
V4 6B
 34
B2 Bomber
Boulder
V5 6C
 34
Digitalis prow
Boulder
V5 6C
 27
Shot Down In Flames
Boulder
V5 6C
 24
Slopey Arete
Boulder
V7-8 7B R
 8
Genetic Control
TR, Boulder
V11 8A
 4
Left of Lloyd's
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bad Habit Sizzlefoot Wall
 24
V1 5 Boulder
Easy Slab Problem Pit (AKA Arm Pit)
 35
V1 5 Boulder
Slicksides Slicksides Pit
 43
V2 5+ Boulder
Spread Eagle Pit (AKA Arm Pit)
 33
V3- 6A Boulder
Spider Tracks Boneyards
 41
V3 6A Boulder
Lloyd's (Crack) Boneyards
 16
V3 6A Boulder
Twinkletoes Pit (AKA Arm Pit)
 30
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Lunge or Plunge Slicksides Pit
 23
V4 6B Boulder
Sizzlefoot Sizzlefoot Wall
 9
V4 6B R TR, Boulder
B2 Bomber Boonyards aka The B2 Pit
 34
V4 6B Boulder
Digitalis prow Slicksides Pit
 34
V5 6C Boulder
Shot Down In Flames Boonyards aka The B2 Pit
 27
V5 6C Boulder
Slopey Arete Path to Got Me
 24
V5 6C Boulder
Genetic Control Sizzlefoot Wall
 8
V7-8 7B R TR, Boulder
Left of Lloyd's Boneyards
 4
V11 8A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Interstate State Park Bouldering »

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