Millstone Edge

Setting sun viewed from Milestone Edge

Description 

Millstone Edge is a remarkable venue for climbing. Unlike many of the other edges Millstone is an old quarry, and the rock features left by the quarrymen are very striking.

The rock is generally of excellent quality, although the top outs for some of the routes need caution as the steep slopes above the cliff can be sandy in places.

The cliff faces west, dries quickly after rain and is easy to reach.

Getting There 

From Hathersage head East on the A6167, after about 1 mile the road follows sharply round to the left. Park up either on the left before the turn or shortly after in the cap park.

Follow the track (just to the west of the sharp turn) heading North. You'll soon arrive at the first area.

The Classics

Featured Route For Millstone Edge

Coventry Street 5.11d PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : Keyhole Cave Area

Climb directly up the crack with good solid finger jams directly up to gain a good rest 15 below the cave. The next section up to the roof is the technical crux.On increasingly difficult finger jams make progress until possible to grab the good lip on the cave.From here standup, and climb the sandy cave until a difficult move at the roof allows you to dynamically get established on the head wall above the cave. The finishing moves are easier,...[more]   Browse More Classics in International