The Roaches

BETA PHOTO: Roaches Overview Map

Description 

Ironically some of the best grit is nowhere near Sheffield.

This BIG gritstone crag runs for miles, with a shorter Lower Tier, and a much longer Upper Tier. This is where Joe and Don first met on the rock and boasts such classics as Black and Tans, Valkyrie, Saul's Crack, The Sloth, plus many more. There's much scary hardness here too.

The pro is natural, cams and wires are particularly useful, as are double ropes; a lot of the harder routes use cracks either side for pro.

The something for everybody here - jam cracks abound, roofs , steep walls, slabs - you name it - there's also some good boulders at the base.

Be an expert with natural pro, and natural belay anchors as there are no bolts here.

Getting There 

The nearest town is Leek, from there go north-east on the A53 towards Buxton. Turn off left at Upper Hulme. Soon pass the right turnoff for "Ye Olde Rock" a recommended pub, then down past buildings to the open road which runs along the side of the moors, you'll first see Hen Cloud, and then the big long pull out for The Roaches.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Roaches

Valkyrie 5.8  International : United Kingdom : ... : Lower Tier

A total classic with a wandering line and a BIG feel to it, and tons of exposure.1) 50ft 5.7. Up the groove, then traverse left along big flakes to a ledge with a huge chimney behind it.2) 80ft 5.8. There's a big flake left of the chimney (facing the rock) up this, over the top (long sling) and down the other side (insane!!!!!) to a tricky and exposed move onto a ledge (crux). Go around the arete and up the finishing slab with a feeling of real a...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Roaches Slideshow

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It's sunny, it's dry, it's grit - what more could ...	Roaches Upper Tier - Bouldering, Marc Chrysanthou.	Gates that enter into the Lower Tier