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Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach)


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Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 7, 2006
Administrator: Art Morimitsu
Latitude: 8.0086  Longitude: 98.8397 
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Map of Railay peninsula


Description 

This area is new for Mountain Project, and is just getting started. Feel free to contribute!

Protection may vary from what you read in the guidebooks or here on this site as routes get retrobolted and threads/slings are added or subtracted from a route.

Located in the Southern Province of Krabi, the peninsula of Phra Nang/Railay Beach is isolated from the mainland by the very cliffs we climb/play on, accessible only by boat from Ao Nang, Ao Nam Mao or Krabi Town. Once you're there, you will find yourself surrounded by the beautiful Andaman Sea, lush jungle, and fantastic limestone cliffs. It has plenty of activities for the average tourists (sun, sand, sea, cuisine, massages, kayaking, diving) but let's admit it: we're here to climb, play and chill out in an exotic tropical paradise.

The Peninsula is actually divided into distinct areas: West Railay, East Railay, Tonsai Bay and Phra Nang Beach (see photo map). The routes are all bolted sport-climbing routes. The French grading system is used.

It's probably the most popular place in Krabi to spend Christmas and New Year, with the limited number of rooms filling up around six months in advance.

ATMs located in Bobo's Market and along the path through the resorts to Railay East near a mini-mart, another is located on the East beach in front of the Viewpoint Resort. There is an ATM on Tonsai Beach. There are several mini-marts and a couple of internet cafes. There are no cars or roads in Railay, which also gives the place a relaxed feel. All the climbing areas are a short walk away.

Guide books:




Getting There 

Bus, train or plane.

By Plane: most travelers can fly directly into Krabi Airport or Phuket Airport. A short 1-hr taxi ride from Krabi or 2-hr taxi from Phuket to Ao Nang beach or Ao Nam Mao followed by a 15-minute long-tailed boat ride to either Railay West/Tonsai Beach from Ao Nang or a 15-minute long-tailed boat from Ao Nam Mao if staying at Railay East.

By Train: Overnight train from Bangkok to Surat Thani, then you must take a bus (or taxi) to Krabi which takes around 2-3 hours.

By Bus: (not recommended) cheapest way to travel, but you get what you pay for. From Gov't buses and travel agency Death Coaches you have several options, just be choosey.


Accomodations 

Please check under the individual areas.


Guide Services 

  • Cliffsman Climbing
  • Tex Rock Climbing
  • Hot Rocks
  • Krabi Rock Climbing


Diving 


Other Resources 


Things to do 

  • Wat Sai Thai
The monastery is Krabi's central temple and a local gathering point during Buddhist events and weddings. The main attraction in the temple is an impressive reclining Buddha image.
  • Wat Tham Suea
Which literally means tiger cave temple, is located in the Khiriwong Valley amidst lush forests and mountains with large trees over a hundred years old approximately 9 kilometers northeast of Krabi Town. Aside from being the site of a meditation center, the compound is also a place of archaeological and historical interest as excavations have uncovered stone tools, pottery remains and Buddha footprint crafting molds. In addition, a cave in the compound has what appears to be tiger paw prints in the stone


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach):
Groove Tube   5.9-     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   Tonsai Bay : Fire Wall
Massage Secrets   5.10b     Sport   Railay East : 1-2-3 Wall
Monkey Love   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Railay West : The Thaiwand
Banana Hammock   5.10c     Sport, 70 feet   Tonsai Bay : The Nest
Make a way   5.10c     Sport, 80 feet   Railay East : 1-2-3 Wall
We Sad   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Railay East : 1-2-3 Wall
Missing Snow   5.10c/d     Sport   Tonsai Bay : Tyrolean Wall
Muay Thai   5.10c/d     Sport   Railay East : Muay Thai
Humanality   5.10d     Sport, 5 pitches, 300 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Stalagasaurus   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Lion King   5.11c     Sport   Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen
Strangle Hold   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Tonsai Bay : The Nest
Babes in Thailand   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Mai Mee Fahn   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen
Tonsai Playboy   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Cafe Andaman   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Lord of the Thai's   5.12b     Sport, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Railay West : The Thaiwand
Tidal Wave   5.12b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Bhet Mak Mak   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Jaidom   5.13+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen
Browse More Classics in Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach)

Featured Route For Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach)
easy clips

Tidal Wave 5.12b/c  International : Thailand : ... : Tonsai Wall (by the Freedom...
Step off of the Freedom Bar porch and head slightly right (facing the wall) past the group of huge stalactites to a spot in the wall with a very steep series of bulges separated by horizontals and groups of pockets. Start at a left-facing "flake" of stone and head up and consistently left to a set of anchors.Most super-steep routes at this grade in the area are all about the pump factor and don't really have any hard moves. I jumped on this route...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach) Slideshow Add Photo
West Railay beach with long-tail boats

West Railay beach with long-tail boats

View of the bay from top of some route on Fire Wall.<br />The weather was either overcast or raining, sigh...

View of the bay from top of some route on Fire Wal...

orange chandeliers, ao nang thailand

orange chandeliers, ao nang thailand

This is Kay bouldering at some random island a few miles off the Phra Nang Peninsula.  Photo by Manuel R.

This is Kay bouldering at some random island a few...

There are so many stellar climbs in Tonsai.  However, I ended up spending a lot of time doing this.  Photo by Manny.

There are so many stellar climbs in Tonsai. Howev...

Beautiful Railey sunset.

Beautiful Railey sunset.

Taiwan wall

Taiwan wall

sun set at 123 wall

sun set at 123 wall

Leslie Allred smokes it on the Thaiwand.

Leslie Allred smokes it on the Thaiwand.

Hanging out over Railey

Hanging out over Railey

clay allred deep water solo

clay allred deep water solo


Comments on Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (Railey Beach) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charlie Perry
From: Fort Collins
Dec 30, 2006

This is a great adventure and a great place to climb. However check out the routes first. A bolt has a short life expectancy, and you could be climbing on what looks like a perfectly good bolted route where the bolts' holding power amounts to a small RP. There is a local climbing shop were you can rent gear and get beta on routes. Don't think that in such a remote place you will be alone. When we were there the place was packed with Europeans and we stayed in Ao Nang. If you are planning on going, email me and I will provide as much beta as possible (i.e. where we made mistakes and where we discovered some real fun.)

By Clay Allred
Feb 19, 2009

Get Wee's book when you get there, no offense to Sam, but its more up to date and is still only like 10 bucks when you get there. And don't miss Wee's deep water solo trip either, it's incredible, so sick.