The Furnace

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Description 

A south facing crag that gets sun early and late. Only the bases of some routes are in the shade of trees and the upper parts are scorching, and long enough to make you feet it. Still the rock is solid, the routes consistent and fun, and the climbing continuous.

From left to right the routes are:
1) Easy Bake Oven/Sideshow (5.8/5.9)
2) Backburner (10b)
3) Balance of Power (12a)
4) Incinerator (11d)
5) Solarise (10b)
6) Free the Mind (9+)
7) Love Me, Love My Route (10b)
A cave back behind and left of the cliff contains one additional route called
8) Every Man Is an Island (10c)

Getting There 

Start up as for Crazy Horse, but take a left at the first switchback at a well-marked sign to go down and right below the base of the cliff. Continue right for a few hundred yards past a bulky and blank overhang that faces SW, and onto the South face with large hanging tufas and a large cave. This is the main Furnace Wall.

The start of 'Easy Bake' will not be easy to see, so the first obvious route at the right of the trees is 'Backburner' and the one up through the left side of the cave is 'The Incinerator.'

The Classics