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Switzerland

Submitted By: Bill Flaherty on Sep 28, 2008
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A giant wedge-o-slab beneath Grimsel Pass. About ...


Description 

Quite possibly the best country in the world for a climber to visit. Take your pick: granite, limestone, or gneiss - all of it splitter, and most of it bolted. Walls tend to be big, and if you're coming from North America, the vertical relief will take some getting used to. The hut system is great, providing quick access to climbs and hearty fare at a reasonable price.

If you're a fan of granite, check out Salbit (www.salbit.ch). There are many routes in the 500-700 foot range - along with a few marathon routes over 2,000 feet. You supplement the almost-adequate bolts with cams. Rock quality is superb. The hutkeeper, Hans Berger, whips up killer food and has one heck of an alpine resume.

For limestone, Melchsee-Frutt is a gorgeous mountain getaway that serves as a popular ski area in winter. In summer, you can enjoy the most pristine limestone walls I've ever seen. Varying in height, with many sections nearly 1,000 feet tall, they are supremely well-bolted.

For gneiss, there is a mongo slab just below the famous granite area of Grimsel Pass. Get your slab-climbing mojo on, as the bolts are very sparse, and some are rather old.

Of course you can get scared and cold at the same time climbing famous alpine walls like the Eiger North Face, but someone else will need to log on to explain why that's fun.

Beyond the climbing, Switzerland offers a unique opportunity to sample Italian, French, and German language, cuisine, and culture in its various regions. Well worth a visit!

Most of the pic's submitted by me were taken by my Swiss-living bro Colin Winter.


Getting There 

Zurich provides quick access to routes in the Central Alps.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Switzerland:
Blauer Käfer   5.10b     Sport, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Melchtal - Cheselenflue
Die Maenner von Memmental   5.11d     Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Melchtal - Cheselenflue
Browse More Classics in Switzerland

Featured Route For Switzerland
Mathijs K concluding the magnificent third pitch.

Die Maenner von Memmental 5.11d  International : Switzerland : Melchtal - Cheselenflue
A stellar route, defined by its wildly exposed, crux third pitch. Pitch 1: 6b, up a steep slab on reasonably good holds.Pitch 2: 6c+, continues up the slab to its end and then into steeper terrain above on good holds. There is a distinct crux move just above the end of the slabby section. Pitch 3: 7a, from a comfortable ledge (anchor shared with the Blauer Kaefer), the route traverses right, onto an overhanging slab of rock that juts out into ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Switzerland Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff Buhl easing his way up a Swiss slab.  Gneiss!

Jeff Buhl easing his way up a Swiss slab. Gneiss!

The granite walls of Salbit - from the approach.

The granite walls of Salbit - from the approach.

Nothing says "Switzerland" better than this.

Nothing says "Switzerland" better than this.

Jeff Buhl cranking up the steep limestone of Melchsee-Frutt.

Jeff Buhl cranking up the steep limestone of Melch...

The important stuff!

The important stuff!

The rock-solid Salbit hut.  Don't try that shutter decor at home.

The rock-solid Salbit hut. Don't try that shutter...

It was nice to stop and have a beer while on my hike at the base of the Eiger.

It was nice to stop and have a beer while on my hi...

View from Zermat after hiking down.

View from Zermat after hiking down.

The Eiger

The Eiger

Cold Eiger

Cold Eiger

Coming up to the Mittellegi hut from the Eismeer glacier.

Coming up to the Mittellegi hut from the Eismeer g...

Engelhorner hut.  One of many great Swiss huts right next to the climbing area.

Engelhorner hut. One of many great Swiss huts rig...

Englehorner climbing area.  Great trad routes with easy access from hut.

Englehorner climbing area. Great trad routes with...

Eiger

Eiger

Grindelwald Locals<br />still need more cow bell?

Grindelwald Locals
still need more cow bell?