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Lac Sylvère
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baltique 
Eesti 
Estonie Left 
Latvija 
Lettonie 
Lietuva 
Lituanie 
Riga 
Tallin 
Vilnious 


Browse this area on a map

Lac Sylvère 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,640'
Lat, Long: 46.3606, -74.0619 Map
Page Views: 984. Good page?   
Administrators: Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Luc on Jan 3, 2011

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Many public cliffs are under the liability insurance of the FQME MORE INFO >>>


Lac Sylvère cliff from the road
2010-12-29

Description 

Lac Sylvère is a beautiful cliff located in St-Donat near a lake where it gets its name from. Due to the constant drainage of water on most of this cliff, there hasn't been any rock climbing routes developed there yet, except that this constant drainage results in a guaranteed source of ice climbs year after year.
The cliff faces south west and it is possible to climb there from mid December up to April.
On top of the cliff is found a Lithuanian Cross which explains the naming theme of most of the routes.

Routes Overview:


Left side of the cross from left to right.

  • Latvija, WI 4+ R, 50m
On the left side of the amphitheater, the first pitch is the same as Lettonie, then head up the left face following some icicles.
  • Lettonie, WI 3+, 50m
In the center of the amphitheater, the first pitch is up a narrow couloir, the second pitch is on the right following a thicker ramp
  • Riga, WI 4, M?, 50m
On the right side of the amphitheater are found numerous short sections of vertical ice separated by snowy shelves.

Right side of the cross from left to right.

  • Vilnious, WI 2+, 45m
The easiest route formed in a couloir with some vertical sections on the right side.
  • Baltique, WI 4+/5, 45m
The cliff’s classic, a wide and thick route formed into 3 vertical shelves, the middle section is about 20m high.
  • Lietuva, WI 4+, M?, 25m
A series of shelves covered by generally thin ice, some variations can be protected using a rock rack.
  • Lituanie, WI 5+, 35m
A beautiful route formed by 2 vertical pillars that don’t always reach the base.
  • Tallin, WI 4+, 15m
Vertical route created by a few pillars.
  • Eesti, WI 3+, 20m
A fairly wide section that can create many variations.
  • Estonie left, WI 4, 40m
Is formed in 2 sections, the lower section is a very wide shelf while the upper section follows a very vertical corner with a cave on the right.
  • Estonie right, WI 3+, 30 meters
Rarely forms, unless the main water flow from Estonie left gets diverted unto the adjacent face.

Links:


FQME Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade
Club d'Escalade de Lanaudière
Blog L'Escalade dans Lanaudière
Ice Conditions on Escalade Québec
Weather on Météo Média

Guidebooks:


Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes
Stéphane Lapierre et Bernard Gagnon
Les éditions La Randonnée
528 pages
Guide updates (2009)

Guide d'Escalade de Lanaudière (Roche et Glace)
Jean Claude Néolet (2009)+updates
Available at La Cordée and Montain Equipment Coop


Getting There 

From Montreal (around 125km):
Take Highway 440 East,
Merge onto Highway 25 North,
Turn left onto QC-125 North,
After Notre-Dame de la Merci, take a right on Chemin Saint-Guillaume,
Continue onto Chemin du Lac Croche,
take a right at Chemin du Lac Sylvère,
take a left at the stop, continue on the left side of the lake, passed the only house on the left, and park near the Sugar Shack driveway, on the left side of the road (north).

Approach:


The 3 routes on the left of the cross can be accessed via the snowshoe trail closest to the cliff.
-Hike the road towards the sugar shack and take the climber's trail on the left (white sign).
-Take a left on the second trail you cross (the first is the ski trail, KEEP OFF!)
-Hike along the trail until you see the orange flags on your right.
The scree and blocks at the base of the climbs are still loose and unstable, be careful.

All the routes on the right side of the cross are accessed via the trail along the sugar shack road.
-Hike the road towards the sugar shack and take the climber's trail on the left (white sign).
These new trails skirt around the left side of the sugar shack harvesting trees so as to insure that no one damages the tubes connecting the trees.
-Pass the ski and snowshoe trails on your left.
-There’s a fork in the trail directing you to the base of Baltique(left) or Estonie (right).


Google Map locations


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lac Sylvère:
Tallin   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Vilnious   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Estonie Left   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
Baltique   WI4-5     Ice, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Lituanie   WI5+ PG13     Ice, 1 pitch, 115 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lac Sylvère

Featured Route For Lac Sylvère
Baltique, WI4-5, 45m (150ft) <br />2010-12-29

Baltique WI4-5  International : Canada : ... : Lac Sylvère
The Classic route at Lac Sylvère, a very wide route in three sections with lots of variations.It's possible to set up a top-rope off of the trees using a 70m rope or 2 ropes tied together.Vilnious to the left would be the easiest way to get to the top of the cliff....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Lac Sylvère Slideshow Add Photo
Lac Syvère, Trailhead reaching Baltique. <br />2010-12-29

Lac Syvère, Trailhead reaching Baltique.
2010-12-2...


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