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The Squamish Buttress
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 332
votes
Routes in Squamish Buttress
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Bylaw Officer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Service T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Samaritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heatwave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oaklan's Tack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pan Tease Lower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squamish Butt Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squamish Buttress, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey et al 1959 |
| Page Views: | 26,653 total · 129/month |
| Shared By: | John Bradford on Nov 30, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Pitch 1: starts below the small roofs, where there is a pin to protect the move. Angle around the left edge and up with minimal gear. Belay at a small tree about half way across the slab (5.8)
Pitch 2: Continue left across the slab on more sparse gear placements, but easy climbing to another tree at the start of a ledge (5.5
Pitch 3: After moving the belay around the corner to the left, climb easy 5th class corners for a full rope length to a good ledge surrounded by trees. The best moves are the top of this pitch. This can also be done in two pitches if desired. (5.7)
Pitch 4: A short pitch, that can be tricky to locate as it is all rather blocky. Climb almost straight out of the belay to the obvious steep crack that ends quickly on a ledge, then follow easier ground to the large open ledge at the base of the headwall (5.9)
Pitch 5: The reason to have groveled through the trees over lesser terrain to this point. A steep, beautiful north facing corner at the outside edge of the wall. It is gained by climbing the cracks to its right, off the ledge. Step left into the corner and jam and stem to the crux just below the exit. This is protected by an old pin, with great gear placements everywhere that will allow for a little old fashioned AO if needed. Step up onto the ledge to a bolt belay, bring the second up, then rap down and do it again! (5.10C)
Pitch 6: Follow easy ledges that wander up to the base of the Raven's Castle. (5.6)
Climb one of the Raven's Castle routes to the top, or move right around the bottom of the rock to pick up easier trails. descend via the tourist trail down the back.
Pitch 2: Continue left across the slab on more sparse gear placements, but easy climbing to another tree at the start of a ledge (5.5
Pitch 3: After moving the belay around the corner to the left, climb easy 5th class corners for a full rope length to a good ledge surrounded by trees. The best moves are the top of this pitch. This can also be done in two pitches if desired. (5.7)
Pitch 4: A short pitch, that can be tricky to locate as it is all rather blocky. Climb almost straight out of the belay to the obvious steep crack that ends quickly on a ledge, then follow easier ground to the large open ledge at the base of the headwall (5.9)
Pitch 5: The reason to have groveled through the trees over lesser terrain to this point. A steep, beautiful north facing corner at the outside edge of the wall. It is gained by climbing the cracks to its right, off the ledge. Step left into the corner and jam and stem to the crux just below the exit. This is protected by an old pin, with great gear placements everywhere that will allow for a little old fashioned AO if needed. Step up onto the ledge to a bolt belay, bring the second up, then rap down and do it again! (5.10C)
Pitch 6: Follow easy ledges that wander up to the base of the Raven's Castle. (5.6)
Climb one of the Raven's Castle routes to the top, or move right around the bottom of the rock to pick up easier trails. descend via the tourist trail down the back.
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