BETA PHOTO: The approximate path of Treasure of the Sierra Mad...
Description
This route is consistent for the grade in Mexico The first two pitches go at 10a with the first pitch ending at the top of a distinct pillar. The third pitch goes at 10c with thin face moves to easier crack. If you jam, expect blood since this is sharp limestone!
The fourth pitch eases up at 9 and the final hard pitch follows at 10c. This fifth pitch is definitely the crux as there is a major pump factor from the previous four pitches. The business starts off the belay with thin face moves to a roof. The route eases up after surmounting the roof.
The sixth pitch goes at easy 9 and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin. From here, you have a view of The Conundrums, La Ola and other walls to the north. Be careful not to pull off any of the large and unstable rocks on others below when finishing this pitch.
Most belays are hanging which makes for an uncomfortable day, but this route is well worth it. Due to the quality of the route, it sees a lot of ascents. I would recommend getting up early for this one to beat the crowds.
Location
The route is located uphill on the Lower Sense of Religion and is identifiable by a large pillar.
Protection
Being a newer Potrero route, this route is well bolted relative to others such as Jungle Mountaineering and Emilio's Posse. This route can be done easily with a 60 m rope; however, use the bolts located halfway down the last pitch if all you have is a 60 as you will have to do some down climbing if you try to go the full distance.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jan 4, 2008 rating: 5.10
"and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin."
Well said and I agree. The lower pitches on this route are fantastic with some wonderful movement on good rock. It would be a four-star classic if it weren't for the final 1.5 pitches. Still, a very nice route. A 70m rope makes getting down much easier and less scary.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 5, 2008
The first 5 pitches make for one of the best multipitch moderates at the Potrero.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 18, 2008
A 70 m definitely takes the sting out of the rap on the last pitch - or maybe some foresight. I managed to miss the rap station half way down and had to down climb a bit to get to the rap station at the top of the sixth pitch.
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