P1: Start at a broken ramp just right of a small palm tree. The crux is at the bulge just before reaching the "eye". Continue up to the notch between the two towers on easy ground. 8 bolts and 110 feet.
P2: Climb the south arete of Chico Spire. Thin moves right on the corner go to some old Mexican iron rings right on the summit (modern rap anchors are 5 feet below). 6 bolts and about 70 feet.
Descent: Make one double rope (50m) rappel down the south face of Chico Spire. Or rap the way you came with a single 60m rope, but be careful downclimbing the last 10 feet of the first pitch.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 21, 2007 rating: 5.10a
This route totally rocks! The top of the spire is incredible, as I recall, only about 2 people can fit (maybe only one). If the wind is up, then communication with your second sucks at the first belay. Bring some longer runners to avoid rope drag. Also, note that this route is 8 bolts for the 110 ft - as I recall, the bolt spacing is not even, and I would suggest a smaller cam for the first pitch before the crux (somebody else might have some better beta for this).
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Apr 2, 2008
For pitch one, you might feel compelled to try the crack where the saddle between the spires forms, but stay on holds to the right and you'll have less trouble. Some of the old, hand-made pins remain from the Mexican first ascentionists.
I brought a set of stoppers for pitch one and placed two of them. Also, I found the crux to be the dark pod/offwidth directly behind "Nick" in the photo above. I cut out onto the face once the offwidth tapered off (maybe 4/5 feet above bolt?). I also clipped some bolts off the arete of the "looking glass" hole beneath the saddle before heading back onto the face. Seemed to be the logical line, and couldn't figure what other route those bolts could have been for. Great route, both pitches are stellar!
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