El Potrero Chico (the "little corral") is a sport-climbing paradise, with limestone similar to Thailand and routes up to 20 pitches in length. The geography of the area is similar to west Texas and southern New Mexico -- arid Chihuahuan desert.
Development of the area began in the late 80's by the likes of Jeff Jackson, Alex Catlin, Kevin Gallagher, Hank Caylor, Tony Faucett, Rick Watson, Craig McCudden, Curtis Mai, Todd McCray, Ed Wright & Tami, Dane Bass, and a host of Austin climbers. But it was Kurt "The General" Smith and Elaina Arenz that really put the place on the map by the late '90s.
The climbing is about a ten-minute walk up the road from the accommodations. Forget bringing any trad gear, everything is bolted. Fifteen or so quickdraws and one (sometimes two) 60-meter ropes is enough. Ninety percent of the routes are less than thirty meters and only require one sixty-meter rope to get up and down. A few routes are best done with a 70-meter rope (Dope Ninja, Will the Wolf Survive?, and La Ola, to name a few).
So all you need to bring climbing is some sun screen, hat and a little water. It was eighty degrees last February. I would also bring some warm weather clothes as well. It can get chilly if a storm or clouds roll in. Many of the climbs are right off the road or a short five-minute approach. Many of the climbs are ten pitches or more in length which makes for a really fun day. There are enough classic climbs in the Potrero area to keep you busy for a good week to ten-day vacation, unless you are Michael Reardon. The bolts are good and runouts are scarce. Most belays have three if not more bolts. There are also two spires that you can do a Tyrolean traverse between for some spicy action. The rock is limestone, but much more solid than in Thailand and the biggest fear is falling into a cactus.
The areas facing the potrero (corral) itself require you to pass through a gate and pay $1US or 10 pesos. Note: the local guidebook author Dane Bass says that this fee collection isn't legal, and you can walk past the gate without paying. This may be difficult on weekends, when the guy collecting money is standing in front of the gate, but is easier on weekdays, when he's lying in his trailer sticking his hand out the window asking for money.
On your day(s) off there are some really fun things to do. The town of Hidalgo is a mile walk or five minutes by car down the hill from the climbing ranches and has a central market twice a week where you can do your food shopping as well as pick up all sorts of stuff from T-shirts to CDs. It is like being at the fair. Hidalgo also has a grocery store. Ask someone at the climbing ranch to help you find it.
Getting There
El Potrero Chico is located in the north-eastern state of Nuevo León, roughly 25 miles northwest of the city of Monterrey (population ~ 3 million). If traveling by air, fly to Monterrey and take a taxi or bus from there to the small town of Hidalgo (population ~ 20,000). The climbing area is located about 2 miles outside of town. A taxi will cost about $35US, and any of the accomodations will arrange a car to meet you and take you directly there for $40US or $45 with a grocery stop in Hidalgo.
If driving from the U.S., cross the border at Laredo, Texas. It's about a 3-hour drive from here on reasonably good toll roads.
Posadas Posadas has about everything a climber needs and is probably the most popular place for climbers. Camping is $5.00 per night. Rooms (about $20) are nice and the above website covers costs per night and much more. Posadas also offers a full kitchen with utensils, gas burners and refrigeration, all included in your $5.00 a night. Rooms can fill up fast so make reservations asap. I would recommend taking a large tub with lid to keep your food in. The refrigerators are side by side glass doored. The kind you get soft drinks from at a store. Bring a Black marker to tag your refrigerated food with. No one ever used any of our stuff, it just can get lost in the mix. Posadas also has Wi-Fi so you can bring your laptop and pick up the Internet. When I was there last it costs fifty cents to call the states. There is also a restaurant on site that serves food and wickedly smooth tequila as well as other alcoholic libations. Top shelve tequila was $1.00 for a gigantic shot. Posadas also has two buildings (mens - womens) bathrooms. I cannot speak for the womens but the mens has six toilets and six showers that are kept immaculately clean and stocked with toilet paper.
Quinta La Pagoda La Pagoda is a large establishment but remains quiet during the climbing season (but it's 3 pools look nice for the summer). Camping for $5, and basic rooms for $20 (bring your own towels and TP). There's a restaurant, but closed for most of the winter. La Pagoda is the closest place to the climbing. A kitchen, fridge, and cooking utensils are available for common use, but aren't quite as nice as those at Posada's.
Homero's Another option for camping and rooms. Also a nice big shared kitchen, with a bit of a lounge around, making a good place to hang out on chilly nights. Milton takes care of the place and will cook you dinner at their tiny restaurant, though your only option is whatever he's cooking. Luckily, he's a good cook in addition to being a great guy.
Homero has a 4-bedroom, 1.5-bath house that he rents out for $110/night (in Feb. 2007). See Photo. Fully equipped kitchen. Great for a group. He also picked our group of 6 up at the Monterrey airport and dropped us off there for our return flight.
Checo's Restaurant Awesome tacos and your basic Mex fare make this the only competition for your restaurant dollar other than Posada's (across the street). $3-5 for dinner and $1-2 for beer.
Tami's Cafe At the end of the entrance to Posadas is Tami's. Tami is the wife of Magic Ed, who wrote one of the guidebooks. If you are looking for accommodations like a house for rent talk with Tami. Tami's coffee shop is a great start to the day. Our usual morning routine was to get a huge muffin and a cup of coffee, sit around the coffee shop, read climbing mags and talk with other climbers. You can pick up a guide book there as well for about $10.00.
Dolphines A family-owned restaurant with cheap and good seafood. We ate there most every night. The ceviche is chock full of fresh seafood for $3.00. Eduardo, who works there, is one of Magic Ed's climbing students. Eduardo is also going to college in Monterrey to become a civil engineer.
crux at the first bolt, you will either want a stick clip, or you can traverse in from the right to clip the bolt. Super delicate, smeary crux, and then mid-11-ish crack moves to the chains...[more]Browse More Classics in International
I have been to Thailand Climbing as well as El Potrero twice. I much prefer El Potrero for climbing. My first visit was about ten years ago when Kurt Smith was putting up routes and Hormeros Climbing Ranch was the only option. My last trip to El Potrero was last year in February. I am a mid to hard 5.10 climber and there were more than enough classic climbs to keep us busy for ten days and many more that I want to go back and do.
There is also a really cool hot spring out in the middle of nowhere. E-mail me if you want directions. I have also been told that there are other hot springs in the area from a friend of mine who lived in Monterrey. Another friend told me about a few cat houses in Monterrey as well (he is a playboy). I can forward this beta if interested.
On the way to the hot spring in the middle of nowhere desert is also an abandoned mission straight out of a spaghetti western. There is a route called Crescent Moon on it which is in the guide book. If my memory serves me well, where the road splits to go to Crescent moon continue to the right which will take you to the old Spanish mission and hot springs. For more in-depth beta e-mail me. We did this route and it is a blast. It does involve a Tyrolean traverse so take two ropes. I could go on and on about El Portero. I also have compiled a list of things to take, driving directions, things you need at the border, the best border crossing to avoid long lines of trucks in Laredo and other stuff I can e-mail if you are planning on heading down that way. (i.e. Mexicans do not use sunscreen, take sunscreen or you will be searching for the local Pharmacy to get some)
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 21, 2007
Hmmm... not run out? Try Jungle Mountaineering -- bolting is spacy enough here that if you get a little off route, you can get really f***ed. Also, try New Ape Man or the Rattler in The Conundrums (both share the same first pitch which is described by Jeff Jackson in Mexico Rock); on The Rattler, you will find yourself well above the last bolt when you hit the crux on the second pitch.
However spacy the bolting is, the routes are generally well bolted in the important areas (The Rattler being an exception). But what do you expect on long multi-pitch sport. Somebody has got to pay for all of that hardware.
Potrero is well worth the trip down to Mexico particularly if you are from a northern clime. Winters are generally warm, but being an alpine environment, can get cold very rapidly. At the very least, bring a shell and a fleece. You won't regret it.
The first time my wife and I went, we stayed at El Ranchero -- run by Kurt Smith and another guy (can't remember his name). Nice digs, but pricey for the area. Last time I was there, it was still open but wasn't seeing much traffic. Since that first trip, we have stayed at La Posada every time -- the owners are very nice and the accommodations are good. It can get busy at certain times.
If you have the opportunity, I would recommend going down at least once around New Year's. It gets crowded, but it is loads of fun. Imagine the sound of gun fire regularly mixed with firecrackers. There used to be (don't know if the park is more regulated now) parties down in the canyon. Maybe, if you're lucky, you will be invited to dine with some of the locals in the area as they roast cabrito over an open pit.
If you fly into Monterrey and get a taxi to the Potrero, how does one get to and from the crags? Walking distance, hitchhike, etc??
By Bryan Howell From: San Francisco, CA Sep 25, 2007
If you take a cab from Monterrey to EPC, chances are you're staying in one of the little campsites or cabin rentals at the mouth of the park. If that's the case, the crags are an easy, easy stroll. Hundreds of routes within a 20-minute walk on gravel roads, and even more if you're willing to hike a little. Some of the tougher hikes are a little bushwacky, but nothing worse than you've seen anywhere else. Just bring a little extra water for the hike.
If you want, you can stroll right up to some classic climbs, spend all day zipping up and down, then walk 15 minutes on over to Checo's for some killer quesadillas and huge bottles of Carta Blanca.
Kinda makes me wonder why I'm sitting at this desk...
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Apr 2, 2008
Don't forget to bring your ear plugs to sleep through the all night parties...if you plan on getting any sleep.
I will be spending the whole month of Jan and maybe Feb in El Pot. I am in need of partners Please get a hold of me if you are interested or know someone who is. tjoshua34@yahoo.com
If your not looking to camp in the middle of 80% of the climbing population in the Potrero and you want quiet, shaded, clean, mellow and more mature accommodations with, undoubtedly, the nicest kitchen facilities then you want to stay at La Pagota. Posada is nice for those that like the excitement of much social interaction.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Feb 5, 2009
I wouldn't compare the Potrero climbing to Thailand climbing. They're both limestone, but that's where the similarities end. Style, scene and culture are all very different.
Need a partner?? I'll be in potrero @ the end of March, first week or two of april. Should be climbing mid 10's strong, looking to climb into the 11's. a w a k e 1 5 6 3 a t h o t m a i l . c o m
My husband and I and two of our friends just returned from our first trip to El Potrero Chico. Wow! It is one of the most amazing places I've been on this beautiful planet of ours. We were not expecting so much and were delighted with the rock, the scenery, the culture, the location, the water, the weather, the people,.... We had a great time and are already planning our next trip. We stayed at "la Cabaña" (email Margarita for info/photos: margarita.martinez@mx.vesuvius.com). It is a one room cabin with a loft just inside the canyon behind the Spires. It was plenty of room for the 4 of us. They are in the process of adding on two additional small studios (1-2 person). It is rustic, but we are seasoned camper/travelers and LOVED it. Sitting at the table out on our deck eating our breakfast, we had the Mota Wall to the east of us, and Time Wave Zero towering over us to the southwest. It was really amazing. Quiet. Our own sanctuary. The owners (Ariel & Chely) took great care of us and were a big part of the beauty of our journey.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Mar 16, 2009
Yeah Joy, though it would be funny if a name like yours came with a negative TR(can you name one cranky Joy?) The Potrero really is a freakishly special place, from sun up to sun down. So many routes, so much culture and soooo many great people that are pshyched. Glad you had a riot.
What style of climbing is it in El Potrero Chico? slab climbing with edges or vetrtical with pockets..? any info on the style would be helpful. thanks!
By Bryan Howell From: San Francisco, CA Aug 28, 2009
Hey Brian,
There's really a good variety of climbing. Most of the stuff I've climbed there was vertical or near-vertical, with lots of edges and crimps. The rock is grippy, but not painfully sharp. I remember a few pockety routes, but my climbing partner had a nice little movie-moment with a HUGE millipede on one of them, and I may have shied away from sticking my fingers into any strange holes after that. (Which is probably good advice for every area of life, really...)
Others may have fresher memories than me since it's been a couple years since I've been there, but really, the place has so much stuff to climb that I can't imagine any sport climber going there and not finding enough to make them happy.
I don't know about slabs, though. Anyone else know?
Since it's time for many people (including myself) to start making plans for a trip to Potrero I thought I would try to help the climbs a little. There are a few people that have poured tons of money and time into the climbs out there so a few donations can go a long way:
1. Old rope. If you're nearing the end of a rope, consider leaving it at the end of the trip. There are several routes that could use a new fixed line (base of Celestial Omnibus, Time Wave Zero (badly), Land of the Free to name a few). Please tie them up or hand to any of the people mentioned below. Static rope is also welcome...
2. Bolts/Hangers. I would suggest donating according to the climbing you are there for: Magic Ed - has bolted many many routes focusing mostly on multi-pitch routes below 5.11a Dane Bass - Also has put up a significant amount of routes mostly inside the canyon (i.e. not in Mota or Outrage), mostly single pitch, mostly below 5.11. For the harder single pitch or a few hard multi pitch the regular crowd down there to donate to would be Simeon and Rick, Ralph Vega, Ulrich, maybe Alex. If you don't know these people... just ask around. There are certainly others that have bolted but these are the ones I know.
3. Anchors. All routes have chains and most are in good shape. For popular routes (to save time and reduce the chance of accidents) consider getting stainless biners and quick links from a place like Fixe. I just got a few of these winch hooks and a bunch of quick links for my local crags. http://www.gradyshardware.com/Seachoice-36981-58x378STL-Winc>>>>> Either install yourself after you talk to one of the above people if you know what you are doing, or just donate to the above people.
I spent quite a bit of time there, did some trail maintenance, helped bolt a few routes and helped lug equipment to where others were bolting. If you have a free moment please do the same.
To help with the type of climbing: Virgin: lower angle to verticle gray limestone with bulleted pockets (sharp). Shade most of day. Front side: Some overhang and a few tufas. Slab and edges above. Shade all day. Estrellas: Easier slab down low to vertical with crimps up higher in the blonde limestone. Morning and late afternoon shade up high. Mini Super: Pockets Jungle: Gray limestone with lots of cactus Mota: Pockets. 5-eleven heaven. Pride/Mileski: Harder routes of vertical to slightly overhanging edges and a few pockets. Shade till 10:30 or 11:30 Outrage: Pockets, edges, tufas Surf: Tufas - the five most overhung routes in Potrero. Shade after 1:00
Thanks for the suggestions on donations. I will definitely bring down a couple of my old ropes to give to the fixed rope cause.
I'll be going down to Potrero for the first time at the end of October and could use some advice from someone who's driven down there before. Such as: Drive time from Denver? Should I buy the Mexican car insurance? Or any other suggestions/tips for a hassle free and safe border crossing.
Also-I have a partner for the first 2 weeks of the trip but will be looking for someone to climb with for the second half (nov 5-19) Anyone interested? And/or have a suggestion for finding partners when I get there?
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