Mountain Project: Climbing Mexico

Mexico is a big country, roughly a quarter the size of the Lower 48 in land area. It includes Baja California, a peninsula extending for nearly 800 miles south of the U.S. border.

Much of Northern Mexico lies within the arid Chihuahuan desert, with geography similar to west Texas and southern New Mexico. El Potrero Chico is located in the north-eastern state of Nuevo León, about 25 miles northwest of the city of Monterrey (population: 3 million). The Potrero is a sport climbing paradise, with limestone similar to Thailand (so I've been told) and routes up to 20 pitches in length.

Mexico is also home to several dozen volcanoes, both extinct and active. At 5,700m (18,701 ft), Pico de Orizaba is the highest peak in the country. Close behind are Popocatépetl "Popo" at 5,452m (17,887 ft) and Iztaccíhuatl "Ixta" at 5,286m (17,342 ft). All three are popular destinations for mountaineers in training for the bigger ranges.

Getting There

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mexico:

Dead Man Walking 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135 feet El Potrero Chico : The Dihedrals

Will the Wolf Survive? 5.10a Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet El Potrero Chico : Los Lobos Canyon

Aguja Celo Rey 5.10a Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires)

Treasure of the Sierra Madre 5.10c Sport, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall

Pancho Villa Rides Again 5.10c Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall

Satori 5.10c Sport, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II El Potrero Chico : Zapatista Wall

Snott Girlz 5.10+ Sport, 7 pitches, 450 feet El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall

Space Boyz 5.10d Sport, 11 pitches, 1000 feet El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)

Black Cat Bone 5.10d Sport, 9 pitches, 800 feet El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)

Estrellita 5.11a Sport, 12 pitches, 1200 feet El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars)

Two Pumped Chump 5.11a Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall

Onward Through the Fog 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall

Pangea 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires)

El Balota 5.11d Sport, 110 feet Virgin Canyon : Lower Virgin

Don Quixote 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Virgin Canyon : Lower Virgin

Yankee Clipper 5.12a Sport, 15 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)

Time Wave Zero 5.12a Sport, 23 pitches, 2300 feet, Grade III El Potrero Chico : Time Wave Buttress

Thunderkiss 5.12a Sport, 9 pitches, 950 feet El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars)

Celestial Omnibus 5.12- Sport, 2 pitches, 70 feet The Outrage Wall : Bronco Bowl

The Devils Tongue 5.12b Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet El Potrero Chico : Club Mex Wall

Comments on Mexico

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By AJS
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2008

Just curious if anyone has been climbing down near Catavena - on Baja California, along route Mex 1...From the road (I didn't bring my climbing shoes on this road trip!) there are tons and tons of large-ish granite boulders. There must be something to climb/boulder on around there!

By C Miller
Administrator
May 5, 2008

There was a Rock & Ice article back in the mid-90's that detailed some climbs in that area - sorry, don't remember what issue.

By lucero
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 19, 2008

Hey I dont comment on here much but I have a question that I need answered sooner than later.... I am traveling down to Ensenada for a wedding in the next few weeks and i want to know if there is good bouldering in the area.

Thanks and cheers,
j

By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Dec 27, 2008

it would be really great if an administrator could adjust the mexico page so that the climbing areas are grouped by state, or at least central/north/southern mexico..

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Left Hand Canyon, CO
Dec 28, 2008

I'm on it Anthony.

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Mexico

Description

Getting There

The Classics