Short People 

FA:  P. Croft, D. Fulton, P. Kindree, 1990 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 75 feet Views: 33 page views Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>> There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

First things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.

The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.

Location 

On the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.

Protection 

Small cams (#1 camalot and smaller) plus three bolts. Shares a two bolt anchor with several routes, including Health Hazard.