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Grand Wall Area
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Cruel Shoes 
Grand Wall, The 
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The Left Side 

5.12a

   

FA: Nick Taylor, Peter Peart
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 113 page views

Submitted By: Lisa Apprill on Jul 25, 2009


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Description 

Excellent route. Climb through some thin face and pull out left under roof to main crack. Crack goes from fingers to OW. OW section is probably no harder than 5.9.


Location 

This pitch is located on the left side of the Split Pillar. Belay at anchor before bolt ladder on P3 (5.10b traverse pitch) of the Grand Wall. Climb route and belay at the top (you can rappel from here) or continue up Grinning Weasel about 15 ft. and make an exposed traverse right to gain belay at the top of the Split Pillar.


Protection 

Single set small, medium nuts; single set .5" (green alien) to 4" cams (C4 #5 camalot). Optional extra .33" cam (black alien), 1" cam (#.75 camalot), 4" cam (C4 #5 camalot).



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By Evan Stevens
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.11d

Double up on the #4 camalots for sure, unless you like to run it out for a LONG ways. The OW is cheatable, so you don't really have to climb that style, but its more like 10- up there. This pitch used to be rated 11+, and is definitely soft for 12-, especially if you know how to jam!