Cliptomaniac 

FA:  FA G. Payan and J. Thompson, July 1998, FFA Jack Fieldhouse, Aug 1998 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 28 page views Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 28, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Brad starting Cliptomaniac in The Valley of Shadda...

Description 

This is the left arete at The Pillar of Payan. This is one of the longest and consistently difficult sport climbs in Squamish. The whole thing is just one long technical crux, brutally difficult to figure out initially, but it succumbs to being worked as once the moves are figured out, it's not as physical as most routes at the grade.

This route on its own is worth the trip into The Valley of Shaddai.

Protection 

At least 14 bolts to a two bolt anchor. After the last bolt, the climbing gets easier, but a few cams (.5 to #2 Camalot) took the sting out of the unknown.

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Brad working out the moves on Cliptomaniac. The r...