Brad near the start the beautiful corner on P3 of ...
Description
An excellent and well-protected journey featuring a variety of movement. A classic climb for sure.
P1 (10d) The first pitch is long and steep (150+ feet), but fortunately protects well with a standard rack. Felt soft for a 10d, but that is what the guide gives it. A moderate lieback (hands) takes you to a short blank section and then to a finger crack. Traverse out the finger crack to the base of another hand crack. Up the hand crack and continue up until you get to the bolted belay. I thought the finger crack and first bit of the hand crack was the crux, and it seemed soft for 10d.
P2 (5.8) Take the low angled crack up and to the right. I passed the bolted belay and continued all the way up to the base of the steeper lieback crack of the next pitch and built a belay. Bomber hand size gear is available for the belay.
P3 (10c) Up the corner. Starts moderate and gets progressively harder all the way to the next anchor. One bolt protects the start of the crux. Bomber pro the whole way, but the final moves to the anchor are a touch exciting.
P4 (10c) Super fun, steep, juggy climbing past two bolts and then a long 5.8ish right-trending ramp. The first bolt is in kind of poor shape, but otherwise great protection.
Location
Take the trail until it hits the cliff. Move left about 40'. The beginning of the route can be identified by a left-facing lieback corner that turns into a traversing finger crack.
Protection
Nuts + doubles TCUs to #3. Lots of slings for the first pitch.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Aug 4, 2009 rating: 5.10d
Classic climb! Three high-quality pitches in the 10c/d range (plus a short easier pitch), each with a completely different character. I don't usually disagree with many of the one-letter downgrades in Squamish, but for this one I feel that 10d is appropriate.
By Mike Teschke From: North Vancouver Sep 28, 2009
Fantastic climb from the star to the finish. The first pitch definitely seemed about a letter grade harder than either of the last two pitches. If I climb it again I would extend the second short pitch as Andy recommends in his route description.
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