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Crescent Spire
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Energy Crisis 
McTech Arete 
Paddle Flake Direct 
Westside Story 

Energy Crisis 

5.11

   

FA: H. Herr, D. Peterson
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 802 page views

Submitted By: Darren Snipes on Jul 31, 2007


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Teague tearing up the Energy Crisis. Photo by Mat...


Description 

A splitter finger crack and layback in a corner.


Location 

Located just right of McTech


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Energy Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Lloyd just before the tips layback/stem fest crux.<br />Photo: Dane Hyer-Peterson

Matt Lloyd just before the tips layback/stem fest ...

Just above the crux

Just above the crux


Comments on Energy Crisis Add Comment
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By Dane Peterson
Aug 6, 2008

This is a really good line. Visible from Applebee it just beckons, and doesn't disappoint. We did this as one 71m pitch, which was a little presumptuous. Do it as two, rope management is better and you need some recoup time at the belay. Pitch 1 has a blocky start, followed by a thin corner. Mid 10. Pitch 2, the goods, is thin, slightly overhanging and sustained hard 10 climbing with a solid 11 crux. Pull that little lip, and there is another 40 ft of hands and fists to the anchors on top of McTech.

By hanshan
Aug 22, 2009

You can climb this in one amazing 70m pitch if your belayer simuls the first easy 10 meters.