Mountain Project: Climbing Canada

Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Jul 25, 2006
Administrator: Peter Spindloe
Latitude: 49.6945 Longitude: -123.1216
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Description

The Squaw has a selection of excellent climbs, which, combined with its reletive seclusion and shady aspect, make this a great place to go on hot summer days. All climbs on the Squaw are fairly difficult, with nothing below the 10a rating. Great views of the town and of the North Gully of the Chief can be had from the wall, and much of the leftern reaches have yet to be explored.

The descent is down the right side of the formation on a somewhat obscure trail. Follow this down to a 4th class chimney with a fixed line. Continue down the trail until it meets up with the approach trail.

Getting There

Take the forest service road about 1.5km past the Apron parking area to a small pull-out on the right. The approach trail is typically overgrown and tropical (like most at Squamish) but fairly straitforward.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Squaw:

Birds of Prey 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III

Pipeline 5.10+ Trad, 5 pitches, 170 feet

The Great Game 5.10c/d Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II

Featured Route For The Squaw

Pipeline 5.10+ International : Canada : ... : The Squaw

The guidebook calls it, "A magnificant squeeze chimney in a majestic curving dihedral." Climb Birds of Prey onto the slim ramp, and belay. Continue up the steepening ramp, and belay in the offwidth. Then the follow the beautiful sweeping "pipeline" off-width pitch for about 170 ft to the top. This is no a squeeze chimney, I am small and did not fit in it. If you have larger feet you will get heel toe jams. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International

Comments on The Squaw

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By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009

I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.

There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch 10+.

The descent is a very interesting scramble through a cave formed by some house-sized blocks.

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