Crime Of The Century 

What a great cack. I thought this climb was much harder than it looked. Intense jamming all the way with excellent gear. This is the finger crack against which all other finger cracks should be judged.

Those are some high accolades Jay. I always thought of Butterballs and Equinox like that. I'll have to get out there and see for myself. My wife and I will be in Whistler in September.

spectacular- doesnt let up for a minute! great route- need to get back and lead it before we leave!

On-sighted it.. beautiful

fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.

I have thin fingers and all, but I still thought it was shallow and flaring at the hardest moves. Definately more insecure than hard. I think of hard finger cracks as being biting and hard more than just too insecure to get purchase in... then again, perhaps better shade or cooler weather would have helped.
The crux was switching from left side to right in my case. or rather, not having noticed that I should have until too late...

yeah, i remember the crack switch being the crux, hot temps making it feel a bit slippery, and 12 straight days of finger cracks making my pinkies and index fingers protest.