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DescriptionThis semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes. Getting ThereDriving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Cat Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Neat and Cool
Laughing Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Wall Area
Pixie Corner 5.8- Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet Pixie Corner
Phlegmish Dance 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Wall Area
Octopus Garden in the Shade 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Octopus Garden
Quarryman 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Penny Lane
Penny Lane 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Wonderland 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Pixie Corner
Neat and Cool 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Neat and Cool
Flying Circus 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Neat and Cool
Jabberwocky 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Wall Area
Popeye and the Raven 5.10c Sport, 70 feet Penny Lane
Centre Street 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Crag X
Supervalue 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Boulder Gully
Climb & Punishment 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Partners In Crime 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Kangaroo Corner 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Neat and Cool
Crime Of The Century 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Penny Lane
Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
Supervalue 5.10c International : Canada : ... : Boulder Gully
Lots of action here. Start with an undercling traverse left (~5.9). Then up a pretty easy left facing corner until you can traverse right to a series of bolts which diagonal up and right. Face climb past the bolts (10-) with a long clip at the 3rd or 4th. After the bolts, follow a crack until it seems easier to move right to a parallel crack; switching cracks is the crux. Follow this crack to the top where you can either traverse...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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