The Smoke Bluffs

The Smoke Bluffs

Description 

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.

Getting There 

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.

Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs

Penny Lane 5.9  International : Squamish : Penny Lane

This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher....[more]