Alberta is the epicenter (or epicentre) of Canadian Alpine climbing with countless snow and ice covered peaks, glaciers and famous north faces. Alberta is also famous for some of the best ice climbing in the world.
Fortunately, Alberta is also well rounded and has sport and trad rock climbing a-plenty. The limestone and quartzite in the river canyons in the Canmore area probably have Canada's greatest concentrations of sport routes. Trad cragging is perhaps a little more limited than some other areas as the limestone of famous peaks like Yamnuska have great history and great routes but less solid rock; the climbing is more adventurous than a granite-trained tradster might be used to.
Getting There
Calgary provides easy access to Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and all of the surrounding areas. Edmonton provides access if your destinations are further north.
A sustained route on pretty good rock w/ no bad, several good and one great pitch. Josephson rates it 10c, Genereux 10/11a R; I'll split the difference.P1: 10- PG, 35M. Follow the corner/crack up to a bolted anchor about 10M below the roof.P2: 10+, 45M. Continue up the crack line and go straight over the roof. Above this sustained 5.10 past a pin leads to a fixed belay.P3: 5.9R 25M. You can either follow Red shirt or: Traverse left...[more]
What is the climbing like around Edmonton? I am a warm weather dude, so can I handle it? How is access from the city... drive times for day cragging? Is there a full range from steep sport to long well protected trad of all grades?
There wasn't an International forum, so i'll see if anyone catches this and has info.
Thanks!
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Nov 12, 2007
This site has relatively few contributors from Alberta, especially from the Edmonton area. I wish I could help you, but perhaps the best thing will be to check out the local gyms and shops. It would be great if you could post what you find. The climbing I've done in Alberta has been great and it would be fantastic to see more contributed to this site.
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