The Grampians

Description 

The Grampians National Park, (also known by its Aboriginal name Gariwerd) is a long mountain range that stretches through Victoria about 250 km north of Melbourne. The largest centrally located town is that of Halls Gap, but Horsham is also near the northern reaches of the range. Mount Arapiles sits alone like the coccyx of the spine of mountains, but those who have visited the Mount will find a significantly different climbing experience in the Gramps.

The rock there is sandstone, but it is often of a softer variety than that of Arapiles. However, there are bullet-hard swaths of rock throughout the range that offer superb climbing. These areas are often spread out, and in extreme cases there are singular climbs that require completely independant approaches. The Gramps reward those who are willing to explore, however, and my experiences there have left indelible marks in my memories.

Because of its geographics, a central camp at Mount Arapiles or near Bundaleer & Rosea will serve a visiting climber well. There is much ongoing route development and tons of potential for new routes. An equal mix of sport and trad routes grace the often steep walls and caves that are common in the area.

Rest days can be spent hiking and exploring hidden waterfalls and Aboriginal artwork.

Getting There 

Approaches vary significantly depending on the region to be visited, but the park lies north of Melbourne.

Featured Route For The Grampians

Passport to Insanity 5.12c  International : The Grampians : The Passport Buttress

Passport to Insanity is touted by some zealous aussies to be "the best line in Australia." I don't think that's true, but the climb, a soaring splitter that passes through a 20' beyond-horizontal roof, is indeed quite astonishing. As of 2004 only four people had freed the crux roof pitch, three of whom were women (Nyrie Dodd, Jill McLeod, and Lynn Hill)... and of course the fourth being the mutant roof climber HB (who supposedly used face holds...[more]