The Grampians

Sunset in Wartook Valley, Grampians

Description 

The Grampians National Park, (also known by its Aboriginal name Gariwerd) is a long mountain range that stretches through Victoria about 250 km north of Melbourne. The largest centrally located town is that of Halls Gap, but Horsham is also near the northern reaches of the range. Mount Arapiles sits alone like the coccyx of the spine of mountains, but those who have visited the Mount will find a significantly different climbing experience in the Gramps.

The rock there is sandstone, but it is often of a softer variety than that of Arapiles. However, there are bullet-hard swaths of rock throughout the range that offer superb climbing. These areas are often spread out, and in extreme cases there are singular climbs that require completely independant approaches. The Gramps reward those who are willing to explore, however, and my experiences there have left indelible marks in my memories.

Because of its geographics, a central camp at Mount Arapiles or near Bundaleer & Rosea will serve a visiting climber well. There is much ongoing route development and tons of potential for new routes. An equal mix of sport and trad routes grace the often steep walls and caves that are common in the area.

Rest days can be spent hiking and exploring hidden waterfalls and Aboriginal artwork.

Getting There 

Approaches vary significantly depending on the region to be visited, but the park lies north of Melbourne.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Grampians

Serpentine 5.13b  International : Australia : ... : The Taipan Wall

Described by the local guidebook as, 'the premier pitch in the country', Serpentine's 2nd pitch is an absolute must-do if you climb at the grade. This is the Taipan Wall's centerpiece route, and each year hard-men from around the world flock to this cliff to attempt this mega-classic. Undoubtedly the best route in the Grampians, and clearly the best 'hard' route in the country. Featuring a bit of everything, from technical stemming, to roof-th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International