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The Bluffs

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Despatched 
Missing Link 
Scorpion Corner 
Thunder Crack 

The Bluffs

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 13, 2007
Administrator: Josh Janes
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The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the...


Description 

The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).

Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.


Getting There 

Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Bluffs:
Missing Link   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Thunder Crack   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Despatched   5.12a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Bluffs

Featured Route For The Bluffs
Climbing the classic and thought provoking missing link. Pro is a bit sparse for the first 20 feet. Photo: Ben Carter

Missing Link 5.9+ PG13  International : Australia : ... : The Bluffs
Missing Link is the awesome, wandering face climb that graces the cover Mentz and Tempest's guidebook. Begin at the center of the upper face of Bluff Major, climb up and right, then back left and up to the summit, following a vague white streak the whole way. Rap from a fixed anchor. Rumor has it that Johnny Dawes TR'd this with no hands!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of The Bluffs Slideshow Add Photo
bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging crack

bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...

The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.

The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.

Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Anderson belaying Swedish climber Gustav.

Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Ande...

Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major

Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major

Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner

Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner

Josh  on Scorpion Corner

Josh on Scorpion Corner

Josh on Scorpion Corner

Josh on Scorpion Corner

Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra

Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra