International Chimney 

I agree that the top is 5.8 not 5.6. With double ropes, some protection can be set up across the "chimney" from the incipient groove that leads to the top. This protection is better than nothing, as it will prevent a horrible slide down the chimney.It's a great climb, and a fabulous view on a clear day.

When I climbed this route, I did the traditional 5.6 second pitch that starts from the southern end of the corridor. Though it looks unlikely, it is possible to get in some small gear and then throw yourself into the squeeze chimney. Ten to fifteen feet of grunting later and you'll find and easy scramble to the summit. I got a good chuckle when reading the new Extreme Angles guidebook to the Needles because they rate that move into the squeeze chimney 5.9! Though the leap was a bit freaky and committing, I didn't think it was anywhere near that hard.

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Got a chance to climb this with Peter Lev, which is like getting chance to visit the moon with Neal Armstrong as your guide. Awesome route! I took the last pitch that starts just a few feet from the rap chains on the first pitch. The secret gear is a number 4 Black Diamond stopper in a very small, not-so-obvious crack on the face before you start the committing moves on the last pitch. You can even place this piece of pro before you start climbing. Get up onto the face about seven feet up and toss a number four black diamond cam deep in the crack and you are home free to hand jam your way up one of the most unique crack systems I have ever encountered. This entire climb is completely enjoyable even if it is a tad bit scary.