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Supercrack Buttress
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International Affair 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Keith Reynolds and Leonard Coyne
Page Views: 1,633
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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hurt yer tip get pissed an rope up..blue camalots ...

Description 

This good but short route has 2 difficult and engaging sections that will keep your attention.

Kind of a bad belay stance next to the tree at the start but its hard from the get go. Cranker second and first digit locks in a tight corner to a corner change with bad feet will hurt you for a short section and welcome hand jam. The final crux is negotiating the scoop with thin pro while utilizing face holds and one quick move to a hidden but good hold on slightly funky rock. (12b or c)

Protection 

(3).75, (2).5, (1)2.5, (2).4, (2).3 inch (Wild Country Friend) size cams


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By karcbr
Jun 2, 2008

This route was put up by Keith Reynolds and Leonard Coyne.
By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2013

A trad version of Rifle's In Your Face. Awesome.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Mar 14, 2014

Is the above gear description from the guidebook? It looked like all .3 camelot's to me. I got up to the changing corners and realized my four .3's would not be enough (of which I'd already placed 3), so I down climbed. My first impression was that it looked like .3's the entire way but Bloomie convinced me to get on it with his varied rack beta. Book says two or three .3's and three .4's. I'd take six or seven .3's and then some less than tips for the top boulder problem.
By michael broad
From: Moab, Utah
May 25, 2014

3 or 4 .3's BD, 3 or 4 .4's BD, 1 #2 BD, Nest before the boulder problem: 2 purple metolius/a green c3, and then 2 grey metolius for the end.
By blue ribbon
From: Leavenworth, WA
Sep 27, 2014

I haven't tried to place BD 0.4 but would be surprised if they go in. I recommend 4-5x BD 0.3, 1x red C3, 1-2x green C3, optional purple C3.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Dec 11, 2014

pat, thats funny...
super hard changing corners!