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Intergalactic Orcas 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lee Robinson (2005)
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: ---- on Aug 22, 2011
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This route is great if you're looking for an all out power endurance challenge. Give yourself an extra letter grade of credit if you're able to send while hanging the draws!

It's a smart idea to stick clip the first bolt before traveling through some suspect rock. Don't be surprised if you find yourself locking off on slopers to make each clip. It seems like each clip is harder than the one before it.

Move quickly through continuous slopers with hardly any holds to shake out on. There are a couple long reaches between the second and third bolts, but other than that it's just a pump management game as you paddle from sloper to sloper.


This route is around the corner from psycho wrangler. Look for nice orange rock on a 20 degree overhang.


5 bolts + anchor

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By Sam Stephens
Aug 14, 2012

Didn't feel like a single move easier than V3 (and mostly V4) after the first bolt... Seriously.