Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
The downward-sloping, well-used holds definitely makes the climb more difficult. Straight up seems a little thin to be just an 8. Using the left edge but not actually going up the arete seems to be a more reasonable 8.
Really liked this climb for it balancy moves on less than positive holds and for its sustained level of difficulty. If you stick to the face, I think this route is about as difficult as Deck Chairs. Actually I would say probably harder. The holds are much more positive on Deck Chairs than on this one, although if you use the arete on the left for holds, this one probably becomes an 8 by NTM standards. The anchor bolts have spinner hangers and the hangers are well worn. I'll probably backup the anchor next time. Also, take a good look at the bolts before you decide to lead it. If you fall from just about anywhere on the route, you will deck. It's easy to setup a TR by scrambling down into the chimney west of the climb.
By pinchepaco From: castle rock, co Dec 2, 2004 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
It could be better protected, but then it would diminish the rating, nice climb.
Harder than 8 if you stick to middle. Good route. Scary on lead.
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Nov 28, 2007 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
7/12/08: David, are you the official spokesperson for the Berks? I doubt it. Anyone solid enough to solo this does not need your help. Do you really think any solo climber would insist the rest of us stop using ropes?
Are you suggesting we take out the bolts? The man who used to own the Golden Cliffs told me he donated the land so kids would have place to climb. I don't believe he wanted them to be gettting hurt.
Kids need the oppotunity to learn. Think about learning to read, instead of learning to climb. You seem to be the type who thinks only only advanced readers deserve books. I can't support that kind of intolerance!
By Kevin Wood May 24, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Good route with the four bolts fun lead. Just FYI ******the anchors are spinning******...the hangers are good though.
This is a tough but fair 5.8 sport route. Bolts and anchors are in good condition.
Because the route is basalt, the holds feel a bit greasy.
By Steinwayz May 14, 2012 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a PG13
This route sucks. The holds are extremely greasy and polished. This was MAYBE a 5.8 twenty years ago - but now I'd say it's a 5.9+ It looks very easy from the bottom - but even the opening moves are a little tricky.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 2, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c