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Black Arches Wall
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Intensive Care 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: June 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: April - September
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011

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Description 

Make a bouldery move using the left-facing microcorner to reach a large ledge. Step right and climb the left edge of a slab through a steep, chocolate-colored wall with no protection (5.6X), to a stance below an overhang. Break through this via a right-facing flake/flaring crack to a stance 5' left of the spruce tree anchor (possible belay here). Climb straight up the face to another stance below a low-angle, blunt face. Climb the face to a small stance and continue straight up the arÍte above (5.8R) to another stance, joining E-Stim for its most run-out section, up another face. Continue straight up the last face (5.8R), finishing just right of the bolt anchors.


Location 

At the face 4' right of a 2' tall block lying against the cliff (which is the start of Carpenter & Das), below a tiny left-facing corner.
Fixed anchors lie on the spruce tree 45' up, and bolts lie just below the ledge at the top of the route.


Protection 

Small trad rack with microcams and Camalots from .3 to 2
There are several bad runouts on this route; the grade's full status is 5.8R 6X.



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By losbill
Jun 27, 2011

Gee Jay! Almost at a loss for words! With the emphasis on "almost"! Quite the description! Part of me says, "Wow. That sounds exciting! Maybe I will give it a go." The other part of me says "Hmm! Don't think that is going to see a lot of traffic!!!!" Whatever the case, having been on several of your other FAs I'm sure it is a very worthwhile climb. I admire your energy. Keep up the good work!!!