Intensive Care  5.8 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  June 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  April - September Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Jun 22, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Make a bouldery move using the left-facing microcorner to reach a large ledge. Step right and climb the left edge of a slab through a steep, chocolate-colored wall with no protection (5.6X), to a stance below an overhang. Break through this via a right-facing flake/flaring crack to a stance 5' left of the spruce tree anchor (possible belay here). Climb straight up the face to another stance below a low-angle, blunt face. Climb the face to a small stance and continue straight up the arête above (5.8R) to another stance, joining E-Stim for its most run-out section, up another face. Continue straight up the last face (5.8R), finishing just right of the bolt anchors.

Location 

At the face 4' right of a 2' tall block lying against the cliff (which is the start of Carpenter & Das), below a tiny left-facing corner.
Fixed anchors lie on the spruce tree 45' up, and bolts lie just below the ledge at the top of the route.

Protection 

Small trad rack with microcams and Camalots from .3 to 2
There are several bad runouts on this route; the grade's full status is 5.8R 6X.