|Intensive Care Slab
|The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives. MORE INFO >>>|
P1- Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R).
P2- From the right end of the ledge face climb past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a clean cut ledge (big runout) or traverse right (safer) to a big pine tree. (5.11 R)
The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab. To my knowledge this has never been repeated. Everyone since has traversed right from the top of the shallow cracks.
This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and that sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care after being injured in a fall.
Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon.
The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot a year later.
5-10' left of Shock Trauma at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.
Draws, a few thin wireds and offset nuts. Poor placements.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Jun 2, 2010
Don't sweat checking out the last bolt. We're going to stuff in a rawl when we go up on this slab again.
From: SL UT
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R
Hey all, the bolt has been replaced, and the route has been restored to its original direct finish. 250' to the small mahoganey. Offset nuts are worthless in the upper seams, but a single blue metolius offers a key protection piece. Its hard to imagine a better pure slab climb. Climb on lovers of routes of yesteryear!
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R
The second pitch is the crux. Pretty well protected during the crux, but the top traverse into the final fist crack has a couple thin 5.10ish slab moves with no gear for a very long distance - ledge fall probable. Be sure you have spent some time training for slabs before you do this route.