Intensive Care 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Stewart Green, Ian Spencer-Green & Brett Spencer-Green in 1993 |
| Submitted By: | Stewart M. Green on Apr 28, 2003 |
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Looking down "Intensive Care".
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Description This excellent 1-pitch route, established after I got out of intensive care for a throat injury in 1993, ascends the big slab on the right side of Silver Cascade Slab. Begin at a shallow corner on a wide sloping ramp below a long roof. Climb polished rock past a chopped bolt to a V-shaped break in the roof. A Friend below the roof protects a move to a bolt. Step left past the bolt (harder for short climbers) and onto some small shelves. Continue straight up the slab above past 5 more bolts to the cliff-top. Belay from a tree anchor. Walk-off descent to the left.
Part of this route may have been climbed previous to my ascent since a funky old 1-inch-long bolt with a rappel sling was part-way up the slab. I also established another 5.8 route to the left, but the hangers were stolen in 1995.
Protection A #2.5 to #3 Friend and quickdraws. A 200-foot-rope is useful, because it's a full rope-length.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the V-shaped break in the roof.
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| Comments on Intensive Care |
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| Fun climb -- but I think I missed the start. I started directly below the V-shaped break in the roof and went straight up placing one cam in a crack about 12' above the ground, then climbing up a blank slab for about 50 feet until I got to the bolt right below the roof. Actually, I found one small horn to sling to the left of me about 45 feet up -- whew! From where I started, I could not see over a small bump/crack where I put the cam in, so I expected some protection above it but there was nothing. If you do the route like I did, it is definitely an "R" rating (maybe an "X") being that runout on about 5.7 slab climbing. I think the correct start is probably 15 feet left of where I started because it looked like there was more featured rock over there, along with some bolts -- but I thought those were for Larynx. Hmmmm.
Anyway, a 5.8 rating was about right for the climb -- except I thought the move through the V-shaped roof was probably a 5.9 move. I wasn't quite long enough (or flexible enough) for that move. Fortunately, it is very well-protected at the roof with a cold-shut bolt placed perfectly. Once above the roof, there are about 4 more bolts and the climbing gets easier the higher you go. I used a big pine tree for my anchor at the top.
As Stewart says, it's a very long climb, and I would recommend it. Just maybe not the way I did it -- straight up and very run out to the roof. Thanks for putting up the climb, Stewart! |
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