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Intellitoys S 
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Simple Gully T 
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Trial and Error S 

Intellitoys 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Chapman, Pam Neal, & Louie Anderson (January 2010)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,387
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jan 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Climber nears the top of "Intellitoys."
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Description 

Intellitoys climbs a steep orange face over a two foot roof at 1/3 height. Above the roof continue climbing the fun vertical pocketed face with amazing red and orange features. Intellitoys finishes with two bulges at the top to the anchors. Surprisingly steep for the grade.


Location 

"Intellitoys" is located on the right (east) wall of the Test Site, 20 feet right of "Imaginarium."


Protection 

11 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor.



Photos of Intellitoys Slideshow Add Photo
Mary Lohrman feeling the pump while pulling down on the amazing features of "Intellitoys," in the Test Site, at Echo Cliffs.
Mary Lohrman feeling the pump while pulling down o...
Intellitoys!
Intellitoys!
Pam Neal pulling on the steep fun features on the 1st ascent of "Intellitoys," in the Test Site.
Pam Neal pulling on the steep fun features on the ...
Pulling over the roof of "Intellitoys."
Pulling over the roof of "Intellitoys."
Considering the moves at the roof of "Intellitoys."
Considering the moves at the roof of "Intellitoys....
Enjoying the late afternoon sun on "Intellitoys," in the Test Site area.
Enjoying the late afternoon sun on "Intellitoys," ...
Comments on Intellitoys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pam Neal
Jan 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Intellitoys is soon to be a very popular classic, due to location, rating, quality, and length. Shady in the morning until about noon, this is a great warm-up for other routes in the Test Site.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Jan 31, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fun climb. Improbably steep for the grade, there are great pockets the whole way up after the roof.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 19, 2010

"Intellitoys" has become one of the most popular moderates at Echo Cliffs. Great moves on amazing pockets and features. Surprisingly steep for the grade.

By Thompson
From: Vallejo, CA
Mar 25, 2010

A great route, and a solid 5.9. I was weary about leading it since it was only established a few months ago, thinking it would still be chossy, but there was some obvious hard work put into cleaning and bolting this route...every hold was solid and fun the whole way up. Soon to be a classic!

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Above the break, this route boasts excellent rock, by area standards.

By RafaelReyes
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Jun 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Awesome to lead. Sustained climbing and in the shade. What more could you ask for.

By Eren Leberen
Mar 18, 2014

Would be nice to get other opinions, did anyone else find the rock quality to be a bit chossy?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 18, 2014

Eren.....you do realize you're talking about a climb located in the Santa Monica Mtns? EVERYTHING is chossy. John Long calls the rock vertical mud, for good reason. Intellitoys was featured in Climbing Magazine as the best new sport route of 2010, when it was established. No offense, but your comment regarding the "chossy" nature of the rock is not a news flash.
If it's opinions you want check out the 28 votes prior to yours. ****