Insuhlation 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Bartlett on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay. 60 feet, 5.4 2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to an obvious tree. 70 feet, 5.9 One rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope, two raps with 60. The tree looks okay, but the next time I do this I'll walk over to the High E bolts.
Location Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.
Protection Standard 'Gunks rack.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 21, 2011
| In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer! |
By Dana Bartlett From: CT Mar 27, 2011
| I'll definitely second the previous comment. |
By Josh Janes Feb 24, 2012
| The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground. |
By Dana Bartlett From: CT Mar 20, 2012
| Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap. |
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