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i. High E
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Throne, The 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973
Page Views: 1,477
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 11, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Josh Byford nearing the top.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay. 60 feet, 5.4

2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to an obvious tree. 70 feet, 5.9

One rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope, two raps with 60. The tree looks okay, but the next time I do this I'll walk over to the High E bolts.


Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.


Standard 'Gunks rack.

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Working up the face.
Working up the face.
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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 21, 2011

In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer!

By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 27, 2011

I'll definitely second the previous comment.

By Josh Janes
Feb 24, 2012

The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground.

By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 20, 2012

Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap.

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

I feel this route is way way easier than Obstacle Delusion. Excellent climbing with great pros.