Instant Gratification  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Mark Stevenson Submitted By:  Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

David Barbour getting established on the lower hea...

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Description 

Scramble up to reach the high first bolt. Climb to a ledge, scoot out right and climb up easy rock to gain the 2nd clip at the lip of an overhang. (You don't want to blow this clip). Climb up the short left facing corner of the overhang making another quick clip and follow jugs to a stance at the base of a crack in the face. Climb the crack making good use of far spaced locks to make a long reach to the ledge before the overhanging white wall above (crux). From the ledge, head up and left aiming for a large flake above. Shimmy behind the flake to its top and escape out right on good holds. Clip the last bolt and head straight up over broken rock for about 20 feet to the finish. This is a nice route, but there's some loose rock and in the easier sections the bolts have some space between them.

Location 

From the approach trail, head right for a few hundred yards along the cliff. This route begins on the right side of an open book on orange rock behind a large boulder.

Protection 

9 bolts, shuts.