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David Barbour getting established on the lower hea...
Scramble up to reach the high first bolt. Climb to a ledge, scoot out right and climb up easy rock to gain the 2nd clip at the lip of an overhang. (You don't want to blow this clip). Climb up the short left facing corner of the overhang making another quick clip and follow jugs to a stance at the base of a crack in the face. Climb the crack making good use of far spaced locks to make a long reach to the ledge before the overhanging white wall above (crux). From the ledge, head up and left aiming for a large flake above. Shimmy behind the flake to its top and escape out right on good holds. Clip the last bolt and head straight up over broken rock for about 20 feet to the finish. This is a nice route, but there's some loose rock and in the easier sections the bolts have some space between them.
From the approach trail, head right for a few hundred yards along the cliff. This route begins on the right side of an open book on orange rock behind a large boulder.
9 bolts, shuts.
|Comments on Instant Gratification
From: The Old Northwest
Mar 16, 2012
I've heard a lot of people compare this route t the very best .11s in the area, like Satisfaction Guaranteed, Legacy, and Bimbo Shrine. I did not think it was that good. Still, worth doing if you're in the area.