Login with Facebook
The Left Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A White Bread World T 
Blade Runner T 
Bloomin' Union T 
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 
Butternuts T 
Central Scrutinizer  T 
Dihedral of Dagmar T 
Dirty Deed T 
Earth Diver T 
Earth Puller S 
Flashflood T 
Follow your Doubt T 
Fool's Progress T 
Giardia Crack T 
Guacamole T 
I'm On My Bike T 
Insomnia T 
Inz and Outz S 
Just Another G T 
Mental Health T 
Midwestern Gangster T 
More Anus Than Heinous T 
Morticia T 
Most Excellent T 
Nervous Breakdown T 
Ninja Warrior T 
Noggin 'Nocker T 
Original Sin T 
Outrageous T 
Phlegm Of Fury T 
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 
Righteous Dump T 
Rising Sun T 
Slaughterfall T 
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 
Spite and Malice T 
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 
Sword, The T 
Terminator T 
Thick and Thin T 
Tombstone T 
Turkish Tickling T 
Tyrant, The T 
Uncle Fister T 
Vertebrae T 
What are you on? T,S 
Mountain Project has launched a new site: Powder Project, and we're giving away loads of gear, including skis & Oakley goggles. Check it out!


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Daniel Miller, Darren Singer
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Insomnia is a heady lead, with steep, thin, and runout climbing on the menu. Start as you would for the Terminator, but at the top of the pillar, move left over blocky terrain towards the roof. Expect hard climbing for a bit, but it backs off a bit at the top.


To the left of Terminator, and to the right of Spite and Malice.


Small/medium wires, small TCUs or equivilent, and whatever else you might need.

Comments on Insomnia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt S
May 23, 2011

the start now has a pin but it only really protects the moves getting ONTO the death block. so dont fall OFF the death block.
By Clay Mansfield
Jan 7, 2015

The pin can be backed up with a micro offset nut if you're into such things. Crux protects great, but if you fall off the block beforehand, you're gonna get banged up. Feels like a significant step up from Blade Runner in the seriousness category.

I'd recommend hauling up doubles from 00 to #2BD, a single #3BD, and stoppers (including tiny).
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!