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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Insider Trading 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Mar 1, 2010

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Crossing through for the next set of holds.

Description 

While the first half of this route consists almost entirely of epoxy reinforced holds, the quality of the climbing more than makes up for the lack of aesthetics.

Rope up next next to the pile of bat guano and climb up some easy but terrifying flakes to the high first bolt. Consider stickclipping if this is your first time on the route. You should be able to clip the second bolt before getting established on the roof. Pull the roof of the cave and pull over the lip to a good sidepull and the third bolt. From here pull some hardcore crimping on miserable holds to a good hold the fourth bolt and a quick shake. Boulder upwards through more hardcore crimping or big power moves depending on your desired technique to a good slot and the fifth bolt. More crimping on slightly better holds leads to a traverse left and a no hands rest where the route joins "Sinister Dane". A fall here could be long and involve a large swing. Fortunately the climbing gets easier as you go. Here the difficulties are largely over but don't get too cocky as one final boulder problem lies ahead.

This route while being considered harder than "Sinister Dane" is much more straight forward. If you enjoy powerful non-technical moves on bad crimps then this might be a great route for you.

A great video of Brandi Proffitt sending this route is shown at: deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/...

I used entirely different beta than Brandi for pulling the lip and the third crux. No thumb gastons or high heelhooks for me!

Location 

Right side of the cave, opposite of the start for Sinister Dane / Full Penetration.

Protection 

7 Bolts to Anchors shared with Sinister Dane. Probably best to backclean the first bolt to help out with rope drag, although watch out for a swinging fall into the rope if you choose this option.


Photos of Insider Trading Slideshow Add Photo
This is probably the hardest actual move on the cl...
This is probably the hardest actual move on the cl...
Sometimes you don't want all the extra weight and ...
Sometimes you don't want all the extra weight and ...
Going for the small but positive left hand gaston.
Going for the small but positive left hand gaston.
Entering the first crux, pulling the lip.
Entering the first crux, pulling the lip.
Crossing into the shared rest with Sinister Dane a...
Crossing into the shared rest with Sinister Dane a...
Setting up for the thin crimp crux.  The next hold...
Setting up for the thin crimp crux. The next hold...
The final crux a big reach between good holds.
The final crux a big reach between good holds.

Comments on Insider Trading Add Comment
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By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
Mar 5, 2015
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Great climbing on this route! Sustained with some steep burliness and some vertical crimpiness. Felt like a power endurance game with nice cruxes. If the rock was less gluey, I'd give it 3 stars but as such it's hard to give more than 2.

Regarding beta, I did the first and third cruxes differently than both Mike and Brandi, so apparently there are lots of ways to unlock this thing. The second crux looks the same for the three of us.

Regarding the grade, it felt like a step up from Sinister Dane, so 13c seems fair.
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