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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right 
D.A.'s Route 
Dialysis Bag 
Direct North Face 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] 
Diversion 
East Bench Dihedral 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) 
First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) 
Macropsychotic 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) 
Northeast Chimney 
Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
Pizza Pie Crack 
Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Eubanks, Vandiver, 1946 FFA: Dalke, Ament, 1960
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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JK on the crux.
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  • Description 

    Good route for advanced leaders who happen to come by here. The moves are good and interesting, but there is not much in the line of protection in a few spots. The moves might be a little hard to reverse, so confidence is key.

    On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.

    Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.

    Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.


    Protection 

    Perhaps a few tricams, a few stoppers, a large-hands cam and a few long slings for slinging knobs. I didn't place any myself, but it looked like I could have fiddled in at least the above.

    The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.



    Photos of Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) Slideshow Add Photo
    Bustin' on up.
    Bustin' on up.
    Cell phone photo of Mickey making his way to the ledge. I drew the route out (badly), as well as the variation we ended up taking after not being able to finish off the crux.
    BETA PHOTO: Cell phone photo of Mickey making his way to the l...
    Rappel after setting TR.
    Rappel after setting TR.
    Chalking up before the crux.
    Chalking up before the crux.
    Comments on Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    May 2, 2006

    Fun, long toprope. #4 Camalot made for a good directional.

    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Oct 29, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

    This is a very serious lead and you'll most certainly get hurt if you blow it. Micro cams are quite useful for the first half of the route and most of the gear is good when you can get it.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Aug 17, 2008

    Fun TR. Easy to get to the anchors from the west.

    By Mike G-Status
    Jan 28, 2011

    Definitely a worthy, long toprope. If you're like me and aren't quite awesome enough to make the final move up the corner, you can vary to the right across a bulge and head up from there... makes it more like a 5.8.