Good route for advanced leaders who happen to come by here. The moves are good and interesting, but there is not much in the line of protection in a few spots. The moves might be a little hard to reverse, so confidence is key.
On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.
Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.
Perhaps a few tricams, a few stoppers, a large-hands cam and a few long slings for slinging knobs. I didn't place any myself, but it looked like I could have fiddled in at least the above.
The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.
Bustin' on up.
BETA PHOTO: Cell phone photo of Mickey making his way to the l...
Rappel after setting TR.
Chalking up before the crux.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
May 2, 2006
Fun, long toprope. #4 Camalot made for a good directional.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
This is a very serious lead and you'll most certainly get hurt if you blow it. Micro cams are quite useful for the first half of the route and most of the gear is good when you can get it.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Aug 17, 2008
Fun TR. Easy to get to the anchors from the west.
|By Mike G-Status|
Jan 28, 2011
Definitely a worthy, long toprope. If you're like me and aren't quite awesome enough to make the final move up the corner, you can vary to the right across a bulge and head up from there... makes it more like a 5.8.