Type: Trad, TR, 94 ft (28 m)
FA: Eubanks, Vandiver, 1946. FFA: Dalke, Ament, 1960
Page Views: 3,850 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Good route for advanced leaders who happen to come by here. The moves are good and interesting, but there is not much in the line of protection in a few spots. The moves might be a little hard to reverse, so confidence is key.

On the S. Face of the First pinnacle, in the amphitheatre proper, there is a left-slanting line of chalked up flakes, edges, seams, and pockets. At just above mid-face the system has a short, left-facing, left-leaning corner, about 10 feet tall.

Climb this system to the top of the corner and then more or less straight upward to the top, where you can belay from fixed anchors.

Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.

Protection Suggest change

Perhaps a few tricams, a few stoppers, a large-hands cam and a few long slings for slinging knobs. I didn't place any myself, but it looked like I could have fiddled in at least the above.

The route is definitely rated S and does have some questionable holds, although these can be avoided with little increase in route difficulty. If you don't normally on-sight solo 5.9, perhaps choose another route to lead and TR this climb.

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