Walk past "Slipstream" to the "Full Tilt" ledges. This is the left chimney of the huge detached tooth that forms "Full Tilt". Climb up a short easy corner to the top of a flake. Stand on top of the flake and burrow into the secure chimney. There is a cool cave behind the tooth. Climb to the top of the tooth and back out on the face to a chain anchor. Belay here and toprope "Full Tilt" or continue up a thin crack with incipient pro to ledges and more climbs.
This climb has pitches below and above which are dirty and less traveled.
A few cams. The squeeze section is secure but unprotectable.
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The other pitches are totally fun and worthy, but they do need some more traffic to help clean them up, especially the first pitch chimney. But it'd be a classic if more people got on it (and the chimney didn't scare folks away). That first pitch is probably 5.8 if I remember right. It's been a while since I could convince anybody to climb it with me!