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Inside Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 5, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Topo. The route we took is in yellow, other option...

Description 

This relatively obscure route goes up the wall left (east) of Outside Corner. The Ruckmans give it a "Not recommended" endorsement, but it does have redeeming qualities, namely the dihedral on the upper pitches.

This route seems to have multiple variations and is sort of a choose-your-own-adventure affair. Our goal was to follow the path of least vegetation and that's what I'll describe below, though see the topo for other possible variations.

Pitch 1: Start climbing up the "cleanest" portion of the slab (about 20 feet right of the inside corner/dihedral proper) up to a small tree. Continue past it up through face climbing. The protection is relatively rare and not very good. This is a crappy, chossy pitch, though you'll love it if you like dirt mantles. Belay on a grassy ledge, using bigger cams (#2 and #3 Camalots) for the anchor. 5.6, 150'.

(Another option for the first pitch is to climb up the incredibly vegetated corner/dihedral itself. It did not look fun.)

Pitch 2: Head up and left from the belay, up a vegetated corner, aiming for the main corner/dihedral further to the left. There is some fun chimneying at the bottom of the corner proper. Sling a bomber chockstone and keep heading up the corner (the climbing is actually fun by this point). You can belay on a small stance in the corner (look for a couple old pieces of tat webbing in the dirt). 5.6, ~100'.

(Another option for pitch 2 is to head straight up from the belay on steeper terrain before cutting back to the left.)

Pitch 3: Continue up the solid, fun corner with increasing exposure. You'll pass an old ring piton en route to the top. Sling some boulders/horns at the top for the belay. 5.6, ~100'.

We were able to just barely combine pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope, and I'd recommend it.

Descent: Scramble up and over some rocks to the Outside Corner topout and follow the faint trail back down to the parking area.


Location 

Approach as for Outside Corner but keep going past it on the east face. Start right of the big corner proper on a clean-ish slab, aiming for a small tree about 20-30 feet off the ground.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3", micro cams helpful. If combining pitches 2 and 3, consider doubles in the standard-sized cams. Lots of slings.



Photos of Inside Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of the route
Looking down from the top of the route
Jacob coming up the crappy first pitch.
Jacob coming up the crappy first pitch.
Looking up at the start of the 1st Pitch as Tristan is about to sling the tree for his first gear placement.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start of the 1st Pitch as Trista...
Jacob getting into the fun dihedral part on pitch 2.
Jacob getting into the fun dihedral part on pitch ...
Looking down from the top of the route and Tristan finishes up
Looking down from the top of the route and Tristan...
Comments on Inside Corner Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jun 5, 2012

The Ruckmans gave it a 5.5 rating, but it felt like solid 5.6 to us. The first and beginning of the second pitches were R-rated for us, but may not be if you take the other variations. Your mileage may vary on all of the above. The first pitch deserves a couple bomb ratings, which are somewhat offset by the exposure and fun climbing of the upper dihedral. There's a fair amount of foliage on the route, though it really only gets in the way on the first pitch and the beginning of the second.

Here's another topo of the route from SummitPost.

By Mooner
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 5, 2012

The 1st pitch was really dirty and vegitated but but the 2nd and 3rd pitch (which we combined) was a lot of fun. Gear placement was plentiful on the 2nd and 3rd pitch once you get in the dihedral