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Sunset Wall
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Climbing Non-Sunse 
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Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Season: Autumn, when not closed or snowed in.
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2007
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  • Description 

    A so-so climb with a lot of lichen and dirt. The pine-needle top-out on the rounded ledge up top is the worst part. If it were to be cleaned, it might be 1 star, but it seemed unworthy of the effort, so it has been left.

    Climb up the left-most of the 3 cracks to gain the crack system, then bump one crack right to climb the center crack, alternating left or right as desired.
    The climbing is so-so at best.


    Perhaps 20 meters right of the "2 Pins" area, there is a set of right-leaning cracks ascending to a large pine from the ground. The third, (right-most) of these does not reach the ground.
    This set of cracks is Sun Down.


    A standard rack to 2.5" Expect some challenge finding the best pieces, but the climb is safe.
    Belay from large trees at the top.
    Rap from the tree above the "2 Pins" area.

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    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jul 29, 2008

    This route is called Insane. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981.