The arete is the climb. Start up a crappy pine-needle covered slab for 80 easy feet to a large tree-covered ledge. Here step up onto the obvious arÍte. Soon you meet a steep step. Either step right (easy) or take it direct, 5.7 or so, on kinda dirty rock. From here romp up the arete (which, once out of the trees, becomes clean, and very high quality) for a hundred feet or so, to the obvious steep step. This is about 5.8+, thin and exposed. Once past this, cruise up the beautiful arete (5.7, then slowly easing) for miles. Eventually you reach a stance/ledge and bomber cracks for the gear you did not bring. Above here, a couple short steep moves (5.7) gain much easier terrain.
This climb is a fun solo. It's had few ascents, and the holds, though seemingly solid, have not been tested very often. Climb this on a non-windy day.
There is no protection within forty or fifty feet of the crux. There is no gear from the crux to a "belay" stance far above. This stance above the crux appears to be more than 200 feet above the tree-covered ledge. Best to suck it up, solo, and figure on downclimbing from below the crux if it looks too hairy above.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2004
Crusher is right, this route is a free soloists dream (or nightmare ...). Being a wimp, I have considered toproping it, but even this doesn't seem possible. The climb is over 200 feet long, and even if you did manage to throw up a top rope, a fall would result in a nasty diagonal slide that could still be rather ugly.