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Inquiry: Aid Climbing practice near Bakersfield/Kern County?

Original Post
Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Hello,

I've been looking for some clean cracks that are out of the way to practice C1 and maybe some C2 aid climbing, most likely on toprope solo.

I'm working towards being fluid and quick in aiders, so the more I can reasonably visit the better.

I'm willing to drive for two hours on weekends and make a day of it every other week or so, so maybe that can help.

Otherwise, I'm stumped on finding cracks that are out of the way that would permit low angle/clean practice. Vertical or past vertical routes are also welcome, as I'll be moving onto steeper terrain as I speed up.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

How about something like this:

mountainproject.com/v/top-r…

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Looks like fun! Any corners or splitters out there?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Max,

I haven't climbed there, but I've climbed Kernville Rock, Dome Rock and The Needles. There is quite a bit of climbing above Kernville, but I've never done any of the stuff below Kernville. Seems like it would be close enough to you to check out. Maybe an hour drive for you?

Frank

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

""Otherwise, I'm stumped on finding cracks that are out of the way that would permit low angle/clean practice.

Hi, never thought of Low Angle Aid.... but if you must. Go to Kern Slab, there are about 3 cracks that "fit your bill" .... don't know about the top rope stuff requirement.

Also "Bald Eagle Peak" has some aid lines, well they were aid before they went free.... the original Eddy Joe climbs. ... again, don't think you can rig a TR.

Valhalla, has some thin lines, all free, but as long as your not pounding pins I don't think you will have your tires slashed......

And up at the Church Dome.... Vatican Porn, 12C.... steep thin that would be good clean aid.... I hung on stuff all over that sucker.

Don't worry about out of the way stuff.... all of the climbing in the Kern Canyon is deserted.

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Thanks!

These are great, I'll look into a few of the suggestions around the Needles possibly this Saturday, so this is wonderful!

Thanks again everyone, I appreciate it.

As for hammering, there will be none of that happening, I'll leave a few stoppers and bail or use cheat sticks before hammering.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Max, check the road status before you head up toward the Needles or Dome Rock, at least if you're approaching from the south. Hwy. 190 is usually closed until about Memorial Day (though will likely open earlier this year) and the road to the Needles is likely closed as well. They were supposed to get a little snow from the recent storm too, so lower elevations may be a good call this weekend.

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

What would be the go-to website for checking road status?

Would it be a service provided by the NPS?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Call the USFS, Springville, at (559) 539-5567 to inquire about Highway 190.

Edit: Max, you should be able to find plenty of places before Highway 190 to set up a toprope. Unless you're set on going to Dome Rock or The Needles. And setting up a toprope at the Needles or Dome Rock may not be so easy!

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

I've lead some aid stuff on the base of El Cap a few times, I'm specifically interested in setting up top ropes solely to run timed laps on aiders on less-than-vertical terrain.

I figured if I have myself dialed down really well, I could zip up most of the "beginner" big walls I have been planning quickly and avoid having any hardcore adventures, or getting my tires slashed for being so slow.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Hwy. 190 is open as of a couple of days ago. The Needles road is still gated but the recent snow they got is melting so fast I suspect it'll open soon. Looks like it will be an early season.

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

I was up there last weekend, the snow is basically gone now

MotorcycleKopp · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 5

Max -
Sorry to jump in on your thread without adding any benefit, but did you end up finding any good Top Rope spots while you were out in the area?? Only a few nearby TR results pop up when I do a search on this site -and the comments section of Kern Canyon MBC has talk of bad anchors :-(

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Honestly if you can find a buddy or are willing to hike, you can hike or climb a variation of almost every climb in Kern River Canyon, and a lot in kernville, and set up a TR with natural anchors or bolts.

I've hike up and around, and then rapped in on the lieback and then claustrophobia to look for slings to replace and find a draw I dropped into the Lieback a while back, it's not too bad

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Max, said.

" you can hike or climb a variation of almost every climb in Kern River Canyon, and a lot in kernville, and set up a TR with natural anchors or bolts.

That is not even remotely true. Most of the climbs top out on vertical choss and dirt or they go to the top of fifth class formations.

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

My bad, I must not even have climbed 5% of the stuff in that entire lower section then, disregard my last statement

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Janszen.... there is almost nothing worth climbing below the Isabella Dam...

Owl Rock is really poor and the approach is up some of the steepest dirt you can imagine.

If your looking for someplace to go AID climb, I suggest you drive to THREE RIVERS and head up toward MINERAL KING...... at the old abandoned ENTRANCE STATION there is a big old rock, 250 feet tall, about 200 feet from the road...
on it you will find AID CLIMBS..... about 4 -6 if I recall correctly.

Climb those.... you will need to carry some copper heads, hooks etc.... but you can't top rope any of them, unless to get to the top first.

I find your dismissive attitude towards what you call "beginner big walls"... sort of telling.

""I figured if I have myself dialed down really well, I could zip up most of the "beginner" big walls I have been planning quickly and avoid having any hardcore adventures,...."

Ah.. but such is youth, good luck avoiding adventures, and I look forward to some trip reports.

peace out

Max H. Janszen · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Mr Keesee you are very correct about the very poor rock quality, the entire lower portion of the canyon has been uplifted three times, along a fault that runs right through it.

But it's all I can manage some days, so I've had to deal with it.

I'll be saving more gas money to get further out to better granite, but in the meantime it's just lots of weightlifting, running, and gym climbing to get endurance. School isn't helping much either, it seems the teacher also procrastinate, ending up condensing what was supposed to be half a semester into four weeks.

Again, thank you for your help, it's very kind of everyone to lend their advice to a younger guy.

and I'll make sure to include a trip report after my next big trip to yosemite, I won't omit any failures either so everyone can enjoy

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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