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 ADVANCED
Lower Major Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archeopteryx T,TR 
Archway Cookie T,TR 
Blue Slab T,TR 
Cat Fight T,TR 
Cat Walk T,TR 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Congestion Chimney T,TR 
Cookie Cutter T,TR 
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 
Earnings Summary T,TR 
Goodbye Youth T 
Innocence T,TR 
Kenosis T,TR 
King's Corner T,TR 
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 
Loco Head T,TR 
Mental Block TR 
Microwave Dinner T,TR 
Mindless Dribble TR 
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 
Puffs Plus T,TR 
Red Slab T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 
Sure Shot TR 
TM Overhang T,TR 
West Michigan T,TR 
Wicker Man T,TR 

Innocence 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Mindless Dribble (68), Congestion Chimney (69), In...

Description 

Innocence is located on the east face of the Red Slab Buttress between Congestion Chimney and Puffs Plus. Climb up the face just right of the corner using nice face features. After a few moves head right onto a less-steep slab of rock.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Innocence Slideshow Add Photo
Tom Mulholland on the upper section of "Innocence," after it joins "Red Slab."
Tom Mulholland on the upper section of "Innocence,...
Comments on Innocence Add Comment
Show which comments
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 9, 2008

The crux is short, but the position of the climb is nice. Take gear to 2 inches. There is a fixed pin after this route joins "Red Slab." Belay from limbs of the pine tree at the top.

By Tradoholic
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Starts on jugs, then moves right onto the face ignoring good jugs on the left to finish. Pretty much just an alternative start to Puffs Plus.

Could be a hard bouldering start direct if you start in the middle of then face.

Doug, I think you did the 5.4 version of the climb. Per Sven, you traverse right at 15ft, then up the center of the face to make it 5.7 but there's no gear after starting the traverse.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 26, 2011

Three years later ... someone was just reminding me that my belay at the top was a sling wrapped around a swaying tree limb.

What I remember at this point is 5.7ish moves, and having to work for one of the pieces in the initial steep section. The crack is what attracted me to that piece of rock. I doubt I led a 5.4 there. It's possible I just missed something, or its possible I was imposing route rules on myself. There are tons of contrived routes in Swartling & Mayer.

By Tradoholic
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Yea, starting just right of the arete and taking the natural line isn't what's described in Sven's book, maybe not 5.4 but it eases off very quickly after 15ft.