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Inner Space Dental Commander
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
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Routes in The Wave Twister
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Inner Space Dental Commander S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wave Twister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Pon and Pain, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 652 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Aug 7, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
The first pitch climbs difficult slab past five bolts. With our fingertips, we brushed lichen off of crucial edges. The slab supports an undisturbed climax, old-growth lichen forest. If someone were to visit with a brush, I would plead for selective thinning, only where necessary, rather than clear cutting.
The second pitch leads past a #1 Camalot placement and a #2, before a short traverse left, past a bent, partly driven "Army" angle piton. Three bolts lead up a short headwall. Behind lies the rim and a bolted anchor (5.6 or 5.9-, depending on how directly you climb past the bolts; 50 feet).
The second pitch leads past a #1 Camalot placement and a #2, before a short traverse left, past a bent, partly driven "Army" angle piton. Three bolts lead up a short headwall. Behind lies the rim and a bolted anchor (5.6 or 5.9-, depending on how directly you climb past the bolts; 50 feet).
Location
This is the righthand of the two bolted routes next to the water. A third bolted route may lie uphill to the right.
Protection
I recommend stick-clipping the first bolt. A #2 and maybe a #3 Camalot must be placed in a horizontal crack between the second and third bolts. After the fifth bolt is a runout on less-difficult slab, reaching the chains at about 70 feet. Pitch two is protected by a #1 and a #2, plus a fixed pin and three bolts.
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