The start area is probably 20 yards past the access ramp for Southside Topropes heading N on the dirt and bushes on east side of Grey Rock. It is before Ormes Chimney and is a combo squeeze chimney (facing east, slightly N) and/or face route in overlapped fold (more like a corner than a dihedral). One pitch lead exits the squeeze and a 5-7 foot traverse lands you at a logical place to string a boulder to anchor (or toprope from the scrub pine higher up and extend to the "ledge" in order to see your partner). Some care placing pro (chossy, but not terrible if selective), and legitimate technical moves make this a nice short problem when other nearby mod routes are occupied. A face problem just to the right of this wide crack also offers 5.8 work (no pro) if your toprope is set for additional fun. Betty Barnett, Lance Bischoff.
Hexes/cams, regular stoppers, a few runners, or toprope from scrub tree on descent ramp.
|By Betty Barnett|
Dec 17, 2003
This is a fun, short route. I chose to do the combo squeeze chimney, vs the face route, and squeeze would be the appropriate word to describe that little section. I would have to say that is the hardest part of the route. It's a great chance to practice chimney moves in a difficult/awkward space. If you choose to toprope it, just watch out for the cactus around the scrub pine that is suggested for the anchor. Don't slap your hand down on one of those little hummers like I did by accident.