|Five and Dime Cliff
The technical crux on this one is the .7 squeeze (very secure). The mental crux is pitch two. It is reminiscent of the top of Chingando (cavernous).
All climbers should try some Chuck Pratt routes, and this is an easier one. A favorite among Yosemite obscurity lovers.
Approach same as for Five and Dime. Just continue toward the eastern side of the cliff. Walk past a huge left facing chimney system and continue east. Look for a flake/pillar with a squeeze on the left side. This is the start. After the climb, walk/scramble off to the east. Then walk through the tunnel to the pullout at Reed's.
Standard rack plus all your wide gear. #5, and #6 friend for sure. Slings.
|By vincent L.|
From: Redwood City
Nov 5, 2011
A really interesting two pitch route . Pitch one is a wide, slightly awkward crack to a tunnel move with little pro . Pretty easy chimneying though . Second pitch is a 12 inch squeeze crack that is virtually unprotectable , but once inside you cannot really fall out , mentally more challenging that physical , although it is that too . Well worth your time , old school rock climbing .
|By Mark P Thomas|
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The first pitch ascends the left side of a fractured tower. Does anyone know what the right side goes at? You can merge with the 5.7 route at the 'cave' section, and it looks pretty interesting.
A #6 BD Cam can be helpful for protecting the earlier squeeze on P1 until you can reach inside deep enough to place a small cam in a seam. Bring 1-2 #5s for P1 pro. You can break this up into 2 pitches and set up a belay inside the cave (I accidentally did this as I wasn't sure when the pitch ended).
On P2 get ready to commit once you enter the squeeze! It seems like you could fall out in the first body-length if you get careless, but really the crux is moving anywhere. Once you get deeper in the squeeze you just chimney up without pro until you tunnel behind a chockstone.
The ending of both pitches were a tad grimy, but otherwise this was a really clean climb. On P2 I traversed left after the wide section as the direct crack was covered in lichen.