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Inner Peace 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 2,077
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 19, 2003

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"Inner Peace".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is the route just left of Wes Bound. More pebble pinching at the Monastery, the twist here is that it is pretty darn steep at the start and at bolts 6-8 (the crux). Rappel 95' from the anchors.


Protection 

12 bolts.

This route now has its own 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Inner Peace Slideshow Add Photo
Attaining Inner Peace. Photo by MaryLynn McSorley.
Attaining Inner Peace. Photo by MaryLynn McSorley.
Joel Larner on Inner Peace.  Photo by Paul Beiser.  TR was run from the Wes Bound anchors.  This works, but if you peel off, you will swing a bit toward Wes Bound.
Joel Larner on Inner Peace. Photo by Paul Beiser....
"Inner Peace" <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Inner Peace"
Photo by Blitzo.
Adrian on Inner Peace.
Adrian on Inner Peace.
Comments on Inner Peace Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2013
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 19, 2003

This route seemed harder to me than 5.9+ more like 5.10b. The description in Gillette's guide mentions"fat holds". I must have missed those at the crux. BTW, the crux is not a single move, more like about 10-15 feet of continuously thin hold climbing between about bolts 6 through 8.

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jun 21, 2003

Bruce, I and many others concur with your assessment of the grade. When Laurence Stuemke, the guy who _found_ and did the first routes at the Monastery, brought me here for the first time in 1995 the area was in its infancy. At that time many of the routes were brand spankin' new and unrepeated. This was the first route he led me to. He had just completed it and was obviously excited about its high quality (as he should have been), and wanted me to do what turned out to be the second ascent. At that time this was the only route in the _Inner Sanctum_ and instead of traversing to the anchors on _Wes Bound_ for the easy lower-off as is now the custom, it rambled all the way to the top of the tower some 150+ feet. Nice and long, but oh, the rope drag! Before getting on it he advised me that it was 9+. I felt quite a bit harder to me at that time, but being new to the area I reserved a grade opinion for later. The following weekend we returned and did the second route in the _Inner Sanctum_, Wes Bound, which is about 15 feet to the right. After we both had done Wes Bound we agreed on a preliminary 10a/b grade, which has become the consensus grade over the years. No one ever seems to argue with Wes Bound's grade. At that time I also told Laurence that I thought Wes Bound and Inner Peace were of the same difficulty, and as I recall he agreed. Why the route appears in the guide and on this site as 9+ seems a bit of a mystery to me, and I would NOT think it's reflective the consensus grade. Frankly, I can't recall meeting a sole who thought it was 9+, and the best I can tell is that it's one of those "prelimnary" grades that has just sort of stuck over the years.

More importantly, the quality and sustained nature of this mega slab-a-thon make it an undisputed area classic, and not to be missed when visiting the Monastery's lower formations.

As a side bar, the Gillett guide and this site list Stuemke's first ascent date on Inner Peace as 1996, however he actually climbed in August 1995. Wes Bound was done in the first week of September.

Sometime in the near future I'll place new anchors at the top of this route. For years the unfortunate traverse to the Wes Bound anchors has tainted the overall quality of an otherwise flawless pitch, and it will be much more enjoyable and safer with its own anchors.

cheers,rico

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 3, 2003

I can't comment as to what I think the grade is, since I didn't make it any further than the sixth bolt. Things seemed reasonable until then, but just above that bolt it definitely seemed harder than .9+.

By Bo Johnston
Jun 27, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Finished the route just before a hail storm yesterday and found this route very challenging. I used to consider myself a solid 5.10 face climber but got spanked on this 5.9+ (which it isn't). The last bolt has a chain attached to it now for a single point rappel or something... maybe not the best idea; we traveresed over to the right anchor.

By Errett Allen
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is both a bit steeper and a bit harder than Wes Bound. If Wes Bound is 5.10a, this route deserves a 5.10b rating. One of the best quality routes I've done at the Monastery.

By Brad Schildt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb was substantially more difficult than Hot Zone, but not nearly as hard as Tabula Rasa. The numerous hold choices make for a meandering route, but if you can find the right holds, I do not think it is harder than 10a.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2005

Where are those anchors, Rick?

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 25, 2008

I got the crux seventh bolt, and it started drizzling. I knew I didn't want to bail. I gave it all I had, climbing on thin hands and promising toe jabs I made it to the two bolt completely drenched.
This was the best route we did all day and most commiting.

By Eric Winne
Mar 26, 2011

Scott, you should write for Rock and Ice....

By Canon
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No way this is 9+. Very steep start and the fat holds flex when weighted, so watch out for that. Climbing is very strenuous once you get halfway up, and I recall perhaps one good rest between bolts 6-9. The final clip and then traverse to the right for the anchors next to the detached block is very sketchy. This climb needs its own set of chains. The belay is almost always in the shade.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 25, 2012

On September 23, 2012, Dale Haas and I added a second bolt (3/8" x 2.25" SS 5-piece Rawl) and quicklinks with chain to the single bolt anchor. You can now rap 95' back to the start of the route without having to traverse over to the anchors on Wes Bound.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 25, 2012

Thanks, Bruce!

By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was glad to see that other people also thought this route was sandbagged for 5.9+. When I was on it, I thought it was one of the most difficult "5.9+'s" I've ever done, a grade which I almost always count on to be harder than 5.10a. The route is awesome, just don't get on it if you're expecting a 5.9 warm-up.