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Inner Gorilla 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,251
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Apr 16, 2011

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Inner Gorilla.
  • Private land MORE INFO >>>
  • Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

  • Location 

    This is in the Upper Primo Area above Nomad Cave. It is the left-facing arete about 25 feet left of Mildage.


    Description 

    Bolted by Luke Childers, this route is a very stellar line with beautiful green streaks of lichen in the rock. After about 12 feet of climbing there's a no hands rest, this is where the route truly begins. The route starts by grabbing holds on both sides of the arete with a good amount of body tension. After pulling the crux, just hold on until you mantel up to the anchors. The rock is clean and the holds are very fun and sometimes a bit odd.


    Protection 

    6 bolts & 2 bolt anchor.



    Photos of Inner Gorilla Slideshow Add Photo
    Pulling through the crux.
    Pulling through the crux.
    Luke Childers looking up at the route that would soon be called "Inner Gorilla."  First day out on the route with friends, Kevin and Jay.
    Luke Childers looking up at the route that would s...
    Another view of Inner Gorilla as seen from the approach uphill from the Primo Wall 4th class scramble.
    BETA PHOTO: Another view of Inner Gorilla as seen from the app...
    Inner Gorilla takes the left most arete on the wall.  In this photo one can see Mr. Capps studying the line just days before his gallant first ascent.  What a line.
    BETA PHOTO: Inner Gorilla takes the left most arete on the wal...
    Jay climbing on "Inner Gorilla."  A cold and unforgiving 1st days work on the route with friends cheering him on!!
    Jay climbing on "Inner Gorilla." A cold and unfor...
    Comments on Inner Gorilla Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 16, 2011

    This route is so much fun! Thanks for letting me get this one, Luke, I owe you a cold one. As for the rating, my guess is around 5.12, but it's difficult to be specific. It's harder than 12b, but easier than 13a

    By Luke Childers
    Apr 23, 2011
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Yes sir, MR. Capps, it was my pleasure and your efforts on putting this one away were admirable to say the least. A fine line and special to me as well!! Hope all others will come to enjoy this gem as we have. Nice send for sure. Keep it up man 'cause I'm dig'in the enthusiasm!!!

    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 6, 2011

    Ya Luke, we need to get you back on this thing. It is such a cool route! I hope it gets the attention it deserves, because it has great moves. Thanks for bolting it for everyone.

    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 6, 2011
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    Got on this thing a month or so ago. Cool route that is a lot harder than it appears from the ground. Nice job, fellas.